Pole of relative inaccessibility- the point that is most difficult to reach due to its remoteness from convenient transport routes. The term describes a geographical point rather than a physical phenomenon and is of interest to travelers.

North Pole of Inaccessibility

North Pole of Inaccessibility ( ) is located in the pack ice of the Arctic Ocean at the greatest distance from any land. The distance to the North Geographic Pole is 661 km, to Cape Barrow in Alaska - 1453 km and at an equal distance of 1094 km from the nearest islands - Ellesmere and Franz Josef Land. The first attempt to reach the point was made by Sir Hubert Wilkins by plane in 1927. In 1941, the first expedition to the Pole of Inaccessibility was carried out by plane under the leadership of Ivan Ivanovich Cherevichny. The Soviet expedition landed 350 km north of Wilkins, thereby being the first to directly visit the north pole of inaccessibility.

South Pole of Inaccessibility

This is the point in Antarctica, the most distant from the coast of the Southern Ocean. There is no general opinion about the specific coordinates of this place. The problem is how to understand the word "coast". Either draw a coastline along the border of land and water, or along the border of the ocean and ice shelves of Antarctica. Difficulties in determining the boundaries of the land, the movement of ice shelves, the constant flow of new data and possible topographical errors, all this makes it difficult to accurately determine the coordinates of the pole. The Pole of Inaccessibility is often associated with the Soviet Antarctic station of the same name, located on 82°06′ S sh. 54°58′ E d. /  82.100°S sh. 54.967° E d. / -82.100; 54.967 . This point is located at a distance of 878 km from the South Pole and 3718 m above sea level. Based on other data, determines the pole on , .

According to ThePoles.com, considering only land, the farthest point would be , and if we take into account ice shelves -  /  / -83.84361; 65.72500. The latest point, calculated by the British Antarctic Survey, is described as "the most accurate point available to date".

South Pole inaccessibility is much more remote and much more difficult to reach than the Geographic South Pole. The Third Soviet Antarctic Expedition, headed by Evgeny Tolstikov and conducting research within the framework of the International Geophysical Year, on December 14, 1958, founded a temporary station "Pole of Inaccessibility" in the coordinates . Currently, the building is still located in this place, a statue of Lenin is installed on it, looking at Moscow. The place is protected as historical. Inside the building is a visitor's book, which can be signed by a person who has reached the station. By 2007, the station was covered with snow, and only the statue of Lenin on the roof of the building is still visible.

Ramón Larramendi, Juan Manuel Viu and Ignacio Oficialdegui reached the Pole of Inaccessibility according to the British Antarctic Survey on 14 December 2005 during a Spanish transantarctic expedition at coordinates using kites.

Partly on foot, partly with the help of kites, on January 20, 2007 we reached the old Soviet station.

Ocean Pole of Inaccessibility

located in the coordinates . It is also called Point Nemo. This is the place in the ocean, the furthest from land. It is located in the southern part Pacific Ocean, at a distance of 2,688 km from the nearest land: Duci Atoll in the north, Motu Nui (parts of the Easter Islands) in the northeast and Maher Islands ( English) (near the larger Siple Island off Mary Byrd Land, Antarctica) to the south. The Chatham Islands are at a greater distance to the west, while southern Chile is to the east.

Continental Pole of Inaccessibility

Has coordinates ( ), the place on land that is farthest from the oceans. It is located in Eurasia, in the north of China and is 2645 km away from the nearest coastlines. It is 320 km north of big city Urumqi in the Xinjiang Uyghur Autonomous Region, in the desert. Nearest settlement: Kosh-Tologoi (Chinese exercise 和什托落盖, pinyin: héshítuōluògai, pall. : Hashitologai, coordinates ), is within 50 km to the northwest, Shazget (Chinese exercise 夏孜盖乡 , pinyin: xiazīgài xiāng, pall. : Xiatzigai, coordinates ) about 20 km to the west and Sulug (Chinese ex. 苏拉格, pinyin: sulage, pall. : Sulage, coordinates ) about 10 km to the east.

Interestingly, the continental and oceanic poles of inaccessibility have approximately the same radius: the Eurasian pole is only 43 km closer to the ocean than the Pacific pole is to land.

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Notes

An excerpt characterizing the Pole of Inaccessibility

- This is for you! she suddenly said. He will live with you.
The little dragon stretched out its spiky muzzle funny, apparently deciding to see if I had something interesting ... And suddenly licked me right on the nose! Stella squealed with delight and was obviously very pleased with her work.
“Well, okay,” I agreed, “as long as I'm here, he can be with me.
"Won't you take him with you?" Stella was surprised.
And then I realized that she, apparently, does not know at all that we are “different”, and that we no longer live in the same world. Most likely, the grandmother, in order to feel sorry for her, did not tell the girl the whole truth, and she sincerely thought that this was exactly the same world in which she had lived before, with the only difference being that now she could still create her world herself .. .
I knew for sure that I didn't want to be the one to tell this trusting little girl what her life is really like today. She was satisfied and happy in this "her" fantastic reality, and I mentally swore to myself that I would never and never be the one who would destroy this fairy-tale world of hers. I just couldn’t understand how my grandmother explained the sudden disappearance of her entire family and, in general, everything in which she now lived? ..
“You see,” I said with a slight hesitation, smiling, “where I live, dragons are not very popular ....
So no one will see him! - the little girl chirped cheerfully.
It was like a mountain off my shoulders! .. I hated to lie or get out, and especially in front of such a clean little man as Stella was. It turned out that she perfectly understood everything and somehow managed to combine the joy of creation and sadness from the loss of her relatives.
“I finally found a friend here!” the little girl declared triumphantly.
- Oh, well? .. Will you ever introduce me to him? I was surprised.
She nodded her fluffy red head amusingly and slyly narrowed her eyes.
- Do you want it right now? - I felt that she was literally "fidgeting" in place, unable to contain her impatience any longer.
"Are you sure he wants to come?" I got worried.
Not because I was afraid of someone or embarrassed, I just didn’t have the habit of disturbing people without a particularly important reason, and I wasn’t sure that right now this reason was serious ... But Stella was apparently in this I am absolutely sure, because literally in a fraction of a second a person appeared next to us.
He was a very sad knight... Yes, yes, exactly a knight!.. And I was very surprised that even in this "other" world, where he could parted with his severe knightly appearance, in which he apparently still remembered himself very well ... And for some reason I thought that he must have had some very serious reasons for this, even if after so many years he did not want to part with this appearance.
Usually, when people die, for the first time after their death, their essences always look exactly as they looked at the moment of their physical death. Apparently, the huge shock and wild fear of the unknown is great enough not to add any more additional stress to this. When time passes (usually after a year), the essences of old and old people gradually begin to look young and become exactly the same as they were in the best years of their youth. Well, the untimely dead babies “grow up” sharply, as if “catching up” with their unlived years, and become something similar to their essence, as they were when they entered the bodies of these unfortunate ones who died too early, or from some kind of illness. untimely dead children, with the only difference being that some of them “add” a little in development, if they were lucky enough during their short years in the physical body ... And much later, each essence changes, depending on how She lives on in the "new" world.
And high beings living on the mental level of the earth, unlike all the others, are even able to create their own “face” and “clothing” at their own will, because, having lived for a very long time (the higher the development of the essence, the less often it re-incarnates into a physical body) and having become sufficiently accustomed to that “other”, at first unfamiliar world, they themselves are already able to create and create a lot.
Why little Stella chose this adult and something deeply wounded person as her friend remains an unsolved mystery for me to this day. But since the girl looked absolutely satisfied and happy with such an "acquisition", I could only fully trust the unmistakable intuition of this little, crafty sorceress...
As it turned out, his name was Harold. The last time he lived in his physical earthly body more than a thousand years ago and apparently had a very high essence, but I felt in my heart that the memories of the interval of his life in this last incarnation were something very painful for him, since it was from there Harold endured this deep and mournful sadness that had accompanied him for so many years...
- Here! He is very nice and you will make friends with him too! - Stella said happily, not paying attention to the fact that her new friend is also here and hears us perfectly.
It probably didn’t seem to her that talking about him in his presence might not be very right ... She was simply very happy that she finally had a friend, and this happiness with me openly and with shared pleasure.
She was generally an incredibly happy child! As we said - "happy by nature." Neither before Stella, nor after her, I never had to meet anyone, at least a little like this "sunny", sweet girl. It seemed that no misfortune, no misfortune could knock her out of this extraordinary “happy rut” of hers ... And not because she did not understand or did not feel human pain or misfortune - on the contrary, I was even sure that she felt it much deeper than all the others. It’s just that she was, as it were, created from cells of joy and light, and protected by some strange, very “positive” protection, which did not allow either grief or sadness to penetrate into the depths of her small and very kind heart in order to destroy it so familiar to all of us. an everyday avalanche of negative emotions and feelings wounded by pain.... Stella herself WAS HAPPINESS and generously, like the sun, gave it to everyone around.

BULLETIN OF UDMURT UNIVERSITY

Physical and geographical research

UDC 796.5:338.48 A.Yu. Korolev

THE POLE OF INaccessibility OF RUSSIA AS AN ENVIRONMENTAL STANDARD FOR WILDLIFE

The concept of "pole of inaccessibility" is studied, a new interpretation of this term and its definition are given. The continental pole of inaccessibility is considered as the most distant point of all Eurasia from the infrastructure, and its location. With the help of GIS technologies, the pole of inaccessibility of Russia and its coordinates are calculated. A description is given of this pole of inaccessibility and surrounding territories, as well as the reasons for its formation. Other poles of inaccessibility of Russia on a planetary scale and the presence of such territories in foreign countries. The importance of preserving the poles of inaccessibility as ecological standards of wildlife is indicated.

Key words: pole of inaccessibility, area of ​​inaccessibility, Lake Vivi, Evenkia, Yessey.

In order to understand where the pole of inaccessibility of Russia is located, it is necessary to know its definition. It is generally accepted that the pole of inaccessibility is the point that is most difficult to reach due to its remoteness from convenient transport routes. The term describes a geographical point rather than a physical phenomenon and is more of interest to travelers, Wikipedia gives such a definition.

There are usually several poles of inaccessibility in the world. Northern, located in the pack ice of the Arctic Ocean at the greatest distance from any land. South, located in Antarctica, at the greatest distance from the coast of the Southern Ocean. Oceanic - the place in the ocean farthest from land is located in the South Pacific Ocean, at a distance of 2,688 km from the nearest land. Continental, which is the point farthest from the oceans, is located in Eurasia, in northern China and is 2645 km away from the nearest coastlines. Settlements are located at a distance of several tens of kilometers from it. Interestingly, the continental and oceanic poles of inaccessibility have approximately the same radius: the Eurasian pole is only 43 km closer to the ocean than the Pacific pole is to land.

Indeed, the north, south and oceanic poles of inaccessibility are very inaccessible points, unlike the continental one, which is located in close proximity to several settlements, in fact it is not an inaccessible place, but simply located at the maximum distance from the oceans.

It seems to us more correct to single out the pole of inaccessibility precisely according to the principle of inaccessibility, that is, location at the maximum distance from the infrastructure, and its inaccessibility can be increased by highly rugged terrain and high altitude. Thus, the continental pole of inaccessibility will be a completely different point, but also located on the territory of China.

The Pole of Inaccessibility of Eurasia is located on the Changtang Plateau in Northern Tibet, south of the Przhevalsky Ridge. From there to the nearest settlements - up to 500 km in all directions. From the north, these are settlements located in the south of the Takla-Makan desert and in the foothills of Kun-Lun. From the south, these are rare settlements on the Northern Tibetan Highway connecting the city of Amdo in the east with the city of Ali in the west. In the west and east of the Eurasian pole of inaccessibility, settlements are located even further.

The Pole of Inaccessibility of Eurasia is approximately equidistant from all major roads surrounding it. From the north - this is the road running along the south of the Takla Makan desert, from the south - the Northern Tibetan highway, from the east - the Eastern Tibetan highway, and from the west - the route leading from Tibet to Kashgar.

Materials and methods of research

The measurements were carried out using the cartographic method and using GIS technologies - by studying images from space. First, the largest uninhabited areas on the territory of Russia were found using maps of different scales. Then all the settlements surrounding these several territories of the supposed poles of inaccessibility are selected, and the distances between them and the minimum distances from the centers of uninhabited territories to the nearest settlements are calculated. After that, images from space were studied in detail for the presence of settlements not indicated on the maps, and with the help of multiple laying of straight lines, using GIS technologies, from the supposed location of the pole of inaccessibility to the nearest settlements, the pole of inaccessibility was calculated.

Whenever a pole of inaccessibility is calculated, the furthest point from all settlements is looked for. Several settlements surrounding such a place from all sides are usually taken into account. Then a point is selected from which the two closest settlements will be the same distance. There may be more than two such, closest settlements, as in relation to the pole of inaccessibility of Russia, but there should be at least two of them, and exactly in the middle between them there will be a pole of inaccessibility.

Results and its discussion

The pole of inaccessibility itself is a specific point located at the maximum distance from settlements. Around this point, an area of ​​inaccessibility is formed, which starts from the nearest settlements or the nearest roads. In Eurasia, the northern border of the area of ​​inaccessibility is located to the north of the Kun-Lun mountain system, and the southern border is along the Northern Tibetan route. The length of uninhabited territories here is 800 km from north to south, and more than 1000 km from west to east.

In addition to the continental pole of inaccessibility, it makes sense to single out other, smaller-scale poles of inaccessibility, which will make it possible to single out the most environmentally friendly, not affected by human activities, one might say, reference, natural territories. It is also advisable to study such inaccessible territories for the development of nature-oriented tourism on them. The poles of inaccessibility can be identified in certain geographical areas and in specific states. For example, the Pole of Inaccessibility of Russia is located in Evenkia, on the Central Siberian Plateau, south of the Putorana Plateau, on the watershed of Fig. The area of ​​inaccessibility of Russia between the lakes Vivi and Tembenchi, and

more precisely, it is located at the source of the southernmost eastern tributary of the lake. Vivi. Pole of inaccessibility coordinates - 66°36"09.04"N. 94°40"20.70"E, at an altitude of 949 m above sea level.

Around the Russian pole of inaccessibility, an area of ​​inaccessibility is being formed (Fig.) - the second largest in Eurasia. The area of ​​inaccessibility is outlined by settlements. From the north they are located on the river. Heta. This is the village. Ust-Avam, Volochanka and Katyryk. In the west of the village Talnakh, Norilsk, pos. Khantai Lake, on the shores of the largest of the Putorana lakes of the same name and with. Turukhansk. In the south, in the valley of the river. Lower Tunguska - pos. Noginsk, Tutonchany, Uchami, Nidym and Tura. In the east - the village. Essey and Chirinda. The maximum length of uninhabited territories here is 840 km from north to south, from the village. Katyryk to the village. Uchami, and the maximum length from west to east is 600 km, from the village. Turukhansk to the village. Tura. The narrowest point of this area of ​​inaccessibility is 445 km, from the village. Khantai lake to the village. Chirinda. The size of this area of ​​inaccessibility is two times smaller than on the Changtang Plateau, in Northern Tibet, which was formed around the Eurasian pole of inaccessibility.

The Russian Pole of Inaccessibility is located in the southern part of the selected area of ​​inaccessibility and is equidistant for 270 km from three settlements surrounding it from three sides: Khan-Tai Lake from the northwest, Chirinda from the northeast and Tutonchany from the south. It is located in the middle of an isosceles triangle, the base of which is in the north, between the village. Khantai Lake and Chirinda, its length is 443 km. The equal hips of the triangle are formed by lines connecting the village. Khantai Lake and Tutonchany and Chirinda and Tutonchany. The tip of the triangle is located in the village. Tutonchany.

Interestingly, relatively close to the pole of inaccessibility of Russia is its geographical center, located on Lake. Vivi, also adjacent to the Putorana Plateau from the south. It is only 28 km away.

The shape of the selected area of ​​inaccessibility is elongated from north to south. This is facilitated by the sharply rugged terrain of the Putorana Plateau and other ranges located to the south. There are settlements only in the valleys of large rivers: the Lower Tunguska and the Kheta. To the west of the area of ​​inaccessibility, the Central Siberian Plateau ends and the terrain becomes more flat and convenient for people to settle. The formation of settlements located in the north-west of the study area is associated with a mineral deposit.

The area of ​​uninhabited territories in this area of ​​inaccessibility could be almost the same as in the area of ​​the Eurasian pole of inaccessibility. Due to the presence of two very inaccessible villages, Essey and Chirinda, this area of ​​inaccessibility has almost halved.

The settlements of Essey and Chirinda are in general a kind of phenomenon - the most remote settlements in Russia, except for coastal areas. We do not take into account coastal areas, because they are always more accessible by water transport. From them to the nearest settlements - more than 330 km in a straight line. From Essey to the north to the village. Katyryk - 330 km, and from Chirinda south to the village. Tura 360 km. The distance between Essey and Chirinda is 130 km. The village of Essey is very interesting for its history. It was founded in 1628 by Russian pioneers - the Mangazeya Cossacks - collectors of yasak (royal tribute), who founded a prison on the shore of the lake of the same name. This is the most ancient settlement of Evenkia. According to the results of the 2010 census, 631 people live there. In the 19th century this village was the religious Orthodox center of Evenkia. Chirinda is also located on the shore of the lake of the same name, which is much smaller than Lake Essei. This village is younger, 244 people live here.

The study area is one of the most environmentally friendly in Russia and in general in the world. From the pole of inaccessibility to the nearest large production, which is located in Norilsk, more than 400 km, along which there is the Putorana Plateau and other ridges located to the south, which additionally prevents the spread of atmospheric emissions from Norilsk production. The rest of the settlements, located closest to the pole of inaccessibility to Russia, do not have any hazardous industries.

These territories are very rarely visited by people, and in modern times mostly by water tourists who enter the area by air. AT Soviet period this territory has been repeatedly studied by geologists and geodesists (at present there are several abandoned geological bases).

The reasons for the formation of such a large expanse of uninhabited territories are undoubtedly climatic conditions. The Pole of Inaccessibility of Russia is located a little south of the Arctic Circle, in the forest-tundra and forest zone, where negative air temperatures keep

7 months a year. This area is elevated several hundred meters above sea level, to a height of more than 1 km, which makes the climatic conditions even more severe. In general, there are practically no traces of human presence there, there are many wild animals that, probably, have never met people.

If we classify the poles of inaccessibility by scale and significance, then Russia's pole of inaccessibility will be of a planetary scale. In other countries or regions, it is possible to single out poles of inaccessibility on a national and regional scale, which are much smaller in size and are relevant only for a given country or region. Such, for example, will be the pole of inaccessibility of Kazakhstan (national scale) and the pole of inaccessibility of the Perm Territory (regional scale). The Russian Pole of Inaccessibility in terms of rank belongs to the same category on a planetary scale as the Eurasian Pole of Inaccessibility or the Pole of Inaccessibility of the Northern Hemisphere. Thus, the Russian pole of inaccessibility, or more narrowly - the Evenki one, does not refer to national or regional poles of inaccessibility, but to planetary ones.

The most interesting object on the territory of the Pole of Inaccessibility of Russia is the Putorana Plateau. It is of great tourist interest. It has a unique bizarre landform, many waterfalls, huge canyons and untouched wildlife. For many tourists, the Putorana Plateau is a kind of model of inaccessibility, lostness.

The area of ​​the plateau is more than 2.5 million hectares; it is the largest basalt trap plateau in Siberia, absolutely unaffected by human economic activity. The plateau differs from other mountainous countries in its unique relief, which is not found anywhere else in the world. Unusual and extremely interesting are the trap landforms, cut by huge canyons, which are not inferior in size to the Grand Canyon in Colorado.

The scale and number of waterfalls are impressive. By the number of waterfalls per unit area, the territory has no analogues. There is no other such mountainous country in the world that could be compared with the number and depth of lakes with Putorana. There are more than 25 thousand lakes here. They are the largest in Siberia after Lake Baikal and Lake Teletskoye. The depth of most of them reaches 180-420 m. Together, the lakes of the plateau form the second largest reservoir of fresh water in Russia after Baikal. Moreover, the bottom of these lakes is often located below the level of the world ocean.

The plateau is indeed one of the most inaccessible places on Earth. You can get there only through the city of Norilsk, which has only air communication with the outside world. Further to the western outskirts of the plateau from Norilsk, in the summer, it is possible to transfer by boat, in the winter, by all-terrain vehicle or snowmobile. You can get to the central part of the plateau both in winter and in summer only by helicopter.

The Norilsk industrial region is a territory with focal development, like many other regions of the Far North and Eastern Siberia. This feature is reflected in the organization of travel on the Putorana Plateau: basically, all routes start in one place, in Norilsk, and end there. Thus, basically only circular and radial routes are possible in this mountainous country.

In summer, the best routes on the Putorana Plateau are hiking. Purely water routes do not give a complete acquaintance with the plateau, they require a helicopter transfer, and purely foot routes are difficult because of the constantly occurring canyons, large lengths, and in general they provide fewer opportunities for viewing the plateau. In winter, traveling along convenient ski routes allows you to better see the sights of the plateau than in summer when traveling on foot. In winter, it is sometimes possible to visit places that are inaccessible in summer, climbing canyons and frozen waterfalls. But since the plateau is very severe natural conditions, difficult terrain, great remoteness and inaccessibility, then ski trips will have the highest category of difficulty.

In addition to the above-mentioned pole, on the territory of Russia, several more such poles of a planetary scale can be distinguished, from which the nearest settlements will be more than 200 km away. All of them are located in the Asian part of Russia.

1. Taimyr Pole of Inaccessibility. It is located approximately in the center of the Taimyr Peninsula. The area of ​​inaccessibility is limited by the following geographical objects: in the south - the valleys of the river. Kheta and Du-dypta, in the north - the coast of the Kara Sea and the Laptev Sea. In the east - the coast of the Khatanga Bay of the Laptev Sea, in the west - the valley of the river. Pyasina.

2. Anabar pole of inaccessibility. Located on the Anabar plateau. Its area of ​​inaccessibility is limited in the east - the valley of the river. Anabar and its tributaries, in the west - the village. Essey, in the south - the valley of the river. Olenyok, in the north - the coast of the Laptev Sea.

3. Suntar-Khayat pole of inaccessibility. It is located in the eastern part of the Suntar-Khayata ridge. It is limited by the Yakutsk - Magadan highway in the north and east and the coast of the Sea of ​​Okhotsk - in the south, in the west - by the valley of the river. Allah Yun.

4. Chukotka pole of inaccessibility. It is located in the northern part of the Pekulney ridge. The area of ​​inaccessibility is limited in the north by the coast of the East Siberian and Chukchi seas, and in the south by the Anadyr Bay of the Bering Sea and the valley of the river. Anadyr and its tributaries, in the west - the valley of the river. Small Anyui, in the east - the valley of the river. Amguema.

The dimensions of the Evenk area of ​​inaccessibility are grandiose. They make up about 400 thousand km2, which exceeds the area of ​​one of the largest European countries- Germany - 357 thousand km2, where about 82 million people live. It is also equal in size to the total area of ​​9 central regions of Russia - Moscow, Ryazan, Kaluga, Vladimir, Yaroslavl, Kostroma, Tver and Smolensk regions, where 28.5 million people live in total.

Uninhabited territories of approximately the same size, that is, planetary-scale inaccessibility poles, exist in only a few countries of the world: in China, Canada, the USA (in Alaska), Denmark (in Greenland), Brazil and Australia. In Russia, what is important, such a huge area of ​​inaccessibility is located in the forest and forest-tundra zone, and the pole of inaccessibility is located south of the Arctic Circle. Of course, the main pole of inaccessibility of the Earth is located in Antarctica. From it to the nearest coast there are 1536 km.

In other countries, such uninhabited territories are also located in places unsuitable for life, except for Brazil, where in fact not only there is no modern industrial infrastructure, but the very area of ​​​​inaccessibility is inhabited by Indian tribes, sometimes not making contact with modern civilization. In Canada and the USA, areas of inaccessibility of similar sizes are located north of the Arctic Circle, mainly in the island part of countries (Canada) with a more severe climate, in the tundra zone. In China, the pole of inaccessibility is located at a high altitude, on the lifeless Changtang plateau. Also, there are large uninhabited spaces in the Xinjiang Uygur Autonomous Region, in the Takla Makan Desert, where places are completely unsuitable for life, it was not for nothing that Marco Polo called this desert the sea of ​​\u200b\u200bdeath. The largest desert in the world - the Sahara - is not so lifeless, human settlements are found in many places in it, and therefore such huge uninhabited territories do not form. Greenland, where the pole of inaccessibility of the Northern Hemisphere is located, is almost entirely covered with an ice shell - an integumentary glacier up to 3 km thick, and it is not surprising that people do not settle there. In Australia, uninhabited places of similar size are found in lifeless deserts, in some parts of which Australian Aborigines live.

Conclusion

It is not yet clear how this area of ​​inaccessibility can be used, but it is very important that it exists, and even near the geographical center of Russia. It is necessary to strive so that its size does not decrease, perhaps it makes sense to create some kind of protected natural area there, except for the Putoransky reserve, located in the northern part of these uninhabited territories. Undoubtedly, this territory is of great interest as an ecological standard of untouched wild nature, which must be protected and used for the development of nature-oriented tourism.

BIBLIOGRAPHY

1. Wikipedia: electronic encyclopedia. URL: http://ru.wikipedia.org/

2. Korolev A.Yu. Geographic features of the poles of inaccessibility of the northern hemisphere of the Earth // Vestn. Udm. university Ser. Biology. Earth Sciences. 2012. Issue. 2. S. 149-152.

3. Korolev A.Yu. Poles of inaccessibility // Geography at school. 2011. No. 8. S. 26-27.

4. Korolev A.Yu. The Karamuran Pass - a geographical mystery of the XXI century // Geography at school. 2012. No. 6. S. 21-24.

5. Official website of the LSG bodies of the Evenki municipal district. URL: http://www.evenkya.ru

6. Mikhailov N.I. Physico-geographical regions of the western part of the Putorana Mountains // Voprosy nat. geography of the USSR. M.: Publishing House of Moscow State University, 1959. S. 5-38.

7. Parmuzin Yu.P. Geological structure and the history of the Putorana plateau // History of large lakes of the central Subarctic. Novosibirsk: Nauka, 1981, pp. 4-8.

8. Zyryanov A.I., Korolev A.Yu. Reference tourist routes: geographical aspect // Vestn. national academy of tourism. SPb., 2008. No. 4. S. 53-57.

9. Zyryanov A.I., Korolev A.Yu. Tourist zoning of mountain territories // Izv. Moscow State University. 2009. No. 6. P.19-25.

Received 09/26/13

Inaccessibility field of Russia as ecological pattern of the wild nature

The article is devoted to the survey of the "inaccessibility field" concept, its new interpretation and definition. Observed is the continental inaccessibility pole, the most remote from the infrastructure geographical point of Eurasia and its location. The inaccessibility field of Russia and its coordinates are calculated by GIS-technologies. We describe the field and surrounded territories, and present the reasons of its origin. Also considered are other planet-scale inaccessibility poles of Russia, and the possibility of existence of similar territories abroad. The importance of the preservation of inaccessibility poles as ecological patterns of the wild nature is emphasized.

Keywords: inaccessibility pole, inaccessibility area, the Vivi lake, Evenkia, Essei.

Andrey Korolev, Candidate of Geographical Sciences, Associate Professor

FGBOU VPO "Perm State National research university» 614990, Russia, Perm, st. Bukireva, 15 (building 8) E-mail: [email protected]

candidate of geography, associate professor

Perm State National Research University 614990, Russia, Perm, Bukireva st., 15/8 E-mail: [email protected]

North Pole of Inaccessibility

North Pole of Inaccessibility ( 84.05 , -174.85 84°03′ s. sh. 174°51′ W d. /  84.05° N sh. 174.85°W d.(G)) is located in the pack ice of the Arctic Ocean at the greatest distance from any land. The distance to the North Geographic Pole is 661 km, to Cape Barrow in Alaska - 1453 km and at an equal distance of 1094 km from the nearest islands - Ellesmere and Franz Josef Land. It was first reached by Sir Hubert Wilkinson on an airplane in 1927 (according to other information, this was also done on an airplane by a Soviet expedition led by Ivan Ivanovich Cherevichny). In 1958, a Soviet icebreaker reached this point. In 1986, an expedition of Soviet polar explorers led by Dmitry Shparo reached the Pole of Inaccessibility on foot during the polar night.

South Pole of Inaccessibility

This point in Antarctica is the most distant from the coast of the Southern Ocean. There is no general opinion about the specific coordinates of this place. The problem is how to understand the word "coast". Either to draw a coastline along the border of land and water, or the border of the ocean and ice shelves of Antarctica. Difficulties in determining the boundaries of the land, the movement of ice shelves, the constant flow of new data and possible topographical errors, all this makes it difficult to accurately determine the coordinates of the pole. The Pole of Inaccessibility is often associated with the Soviet Antarctic station of the same name, located on -82.1 , 54.966667 82°06′ S sh. 54°58′ E d. /  (G). This point is located at a distance of 878 km from the South Pole, and 3718 m above sea level. Based on other data, Polar Research institute Scott's name defines the pole on -85.833333 , 65.783333 85°50′S sh. 65°47′ E d. /  85.833333°S sh. 65.783333° E d.(G), .

According to ThePoles.com, considering only land, the farthest point would be -82.887222 , 55.075 82°53′14″ S sh. 55°04′30″ E d. /  82.887222°S sh. 55.075° E d.(G), and if we take into account ice shelves - -83.843611 , 65.725  /  (G). The latest point, calculated by the British Antarctic Survey, is described as "the most accurate point available to date".

The South Pole of Inaccessibility is much more remote and much more difficult to reach than the Geographic South Pole. The Third Soviet Antarctic Expedition, headed by Evgeny Tolstikov and conducting research within the framework of the International Geophysical Year, on December 14, 1958, founded a temporary station "Pole of Inaccessibility" in the coordinates -82.1 , 54.966667 82°06′ S sh. 54°58′ E d. /  82.1°S sh. 54.966667° E d.(G). Currently, the building is still located in this place, a statue of Lenin is installed on it, looking at Moscow. The place is protected as historical. Inside the building is a visitor's book, which can be signed by a person who has reached the station. By 2007, the station was covered with snow, and only the statue of Lenin on the roof of the building is still visible. You can see it for miles.

Ramón Larramendi, Juan Manuel Viu and Ignacio Oficialdegui reached the Pole of Inaccessibility according to the British Antarctic Survey on 14 December 2005 during a Spanish transantarctic expedition at coordinates -83.843611 , 65.725 83°50′37″ S sh. 65°43′30″ E d. /  83.843611°S sh. 65.725° E d.(G) using kites.

Ocean Pole of Inaccessibility

It is located in coordinates ( -48.876667 , -123.393333 48°52′ S sh. 123°23′ W d. /  48.876667°S sh. 123.393333° W d.(G)) It is also called Point Nemo. This place in the ocean is the furthest from land. It is located in the South Pacific Ocean, at a distance of 2,688 km from the nearest land: the Duce Islands in the north, Motu Nui (parts of the Easter Islands) in the northeast and Maher Island (located near the larger Sipla Island off Mary Byrd Land, Antarctica ) on South. The Chatham Islands are at a greater distance to the west, and southern Chile to the east.

Continental Pole of Inaccessibility

It is located in coordinates ( 46.283333 , 86.666667 46°17′ N. sh. 86°40′ E d. /  46.283333° N sh. 86.666667° E d.(G)), the place on land that is farthest from the oceans. It is located in Eurasia, in the north of China and is 2645 km away from the nearest coastlines. It is 320 km north of the major city of Urumqi in the Xinjiang Uygur Autonomous Region, in the desert. Nearest settlement: Hokstolgai at coordinates 46.566667 , 85.966667 46°34′ N. sh. 85°58′ E d. /  46.566667° N sh. 85.966667° E d.(G), is located 30 miles northwest, Xazgat at coordinates 46.333333 , 86.366667 46°20' N. sh. 86°22′ E d. /  46.333333° N. sh. 86.366667° E d.(G) about 13 miles west and Suluk at coordinates 46.25 , 86.833333 46°15′ N. sh. 86°50′ E d. /  46.25° N sh. 86.833333° E d.(G) about 7 miles east.

It is interesting that the continental and oceanic poles of inaccessibility have approximately the same radius: the Eurasian pole is only 43 km closer to the ocean than the Pacific pole is to land.

Ice-covered, sparkling cold light edge of the earth! The frozen peaks of countless islands float below in white silence. Many times I flew over the archipelago of Franz Josef Land, many times I walked on this land, but I still can’t get used to its majestic beauty.

The first to break the silence was the commander of our crew, Ivan Ivanovich Cherevichny. Looking up from the porthole, he asked:

— Aren't there such cracks on the dome of Rudolf Island? He pointed to the bulging plateau of Reiner's Island, the edges of which gaped with crevices.

“Not in thirty-seven. Let's go and see, I replied.

Fortunately, cracks form mainly at the edges of glaciers. Knowing this, you can choose a relatively safe landing site.

Soon, in the soft purple shadows of the advancing twilight, the familiar outline of Rudolph's Island floated up.

The four-engine USSR-N-169, which started a day ago in Moscow, went to the area of ​​the “pole of relative inaccessibility”.

North of the 75th parallel, between the meridians 170° east and 130° west, lies a vast unexplored area of ​​the Arctic Ocean.

The contours of this "white spot" form a triangle. Its peak adjoins the geographic point of the pole, and not far from the center of the "spot" is one of the remarkable places on the globe - the "pole of relative inaccessibility".

Far from the coast of the ocean, surrounded by multi-year ice, impassable for icebreakers, this area has so far remained unexplored. The "pole of inaccessibility" concealed many tempting things. Scientists all over the world tried to guess what was going on there.

Some argued that this place is at the same time a "pole of lifelessness", a dead icy space. Others, on the contrary, argued that there are lands with a rich wildlife; they referred to B. Bartlett, who, moving along drifting ice to Wrangel Island, watched flocks of birds flying from the north, obviously after summer.

Attempts to penetrate to the "pole of relative inaccessibility" were. The same captain Bartlett went here in 1913 in search of the alleged Harris Land, but his schooner was crushed by ice, and the crew, having lost several people, barely got out of trouble.

Polar explorer G. Wilkins with pilot B. Eielson in 1927 reached 77 ° 46 "northern latitude and 175 ° 00" western longitude. In 1938, flying from an airfield in Alaska, he reached 87 ° north latitude and examined eastern border"white spot", but he failed to penetrate deep into the territory.

The Arctic jealously guarded its secrets.

In December 1940, I. Cherevichny, V. Chechin and I submitted to the Leningrad Arctic Institute a project for an expedition to explore the “pole of relative inaccessibility.” The scientists supported us.

It was supposed to make three landings in the "white spot" area north of Wrangel Island and carry out a set of scientific works.

The expedition, in addition to the team consisting of pilots I. Cherevichny and M. Kaminsky, flight mechanics D. Shekurov, V. Borukin and A. Durmanenko, flight radio operator A. Makarov and navigator - the author of these notes, included magnetologist and astronomer M. Ostrekin, hydrologists Ya. Libin and N. Chernigovsky.

In March 1941 we reached 83° north latitude and 95° east longitude. From here I charted a course for Cape Chelyuskin.

Our star-winged bird rushes swiftly, crossing the invisible parallels of the Earth. Below us is the Laptev Sea. Higher and higher the sun rises: we are now going south. On the right, in a light haze, the ice massifs of Severnaya Zemlya are visible. Komsomolets Island, October Revolution Island, Bolshevik Island - all these are lands discovered in our glorious time by Soviet polar explorers.

Severnaya Zemlya is still deserted. Only a small wintering place for scientists took shelter on one of its many islands.

“Cape Chelyuskin is the northernmost tip of the Asian continent,” I announced solemnly. The plane started landing.

Frowning, Ivan Ivanovich extended his hand forward to where the wind fluttered the black flags that marked the prepared landing strip.

— Yeah... It's an arena for racing with obstacles! — burst out from me.

"The other one, apparently not," Cherevichny replied coolly.

Hills of dense snow were falling on us. The car hopped heavily over the petrified snowdrifts, leaning over to the right wing. A strong push ripped us off and threw us forward. Suitcases, bales, heavy appliances flew at me. There was an agonizing silence. Getting out from under the bales, I looked out the porthole. The plane, safe and sound, stood on skis with the engines running. We jumped out of the car and rushed to inspect the chassis.

- It's all right! Cherevichny said.

Confused winterers ran up, but Ivan Ivanovich only waved his hand:

- Well, what will you take! - Then he turned to us: - It's the first time they take the plane ...

We stayed for a short time with the winterers at Cape Chelyuskin. Dawn of the next day found us over the ocean. The plane was on its way to Kotelny, the largest of the group of islands in the Novosibirsk archipelago. On it, we waited out a blizzard for almost a day, and then headed for Wrangel Island. They took off blindly. Excellent gyroscopic instruments made it possible to accurately carry out this complex operation. Life flowed measuredly on the plane. We've been in the air for five hours now. Mechanic Borukin invited everyone free from the watch to dinner - hot coffee, cutlets from bear meat.

The bulk of Jeannette's Island appeared on the horizon. Everywhere there are dull exposed rocks, only in some places covered with ice and snow. The green, blue and blue ice of the ocean, crushed against the stone teeth of the shore, moved slowly past the island, filling the air with a roar that could be heard even over the noise of the engines.

We are approaching the famous Ayon massif - an alloy of heavy multi-year ice, as strong as granite. According to still unknown laws of drift, they either rise to the north or descend to the south, closing or opening the passage for caravans. The success of navigation in the eastern part of the Arctic largely depends on the behavior of these ices. Our attention was drawn to a large iceberg, more than half covered by fog.

Is there an iceberg in the area? Ivan Ivanovich is surprised. Currents from Severnaya Zemlya do not turn here, and Henrietta does not give birth to such powerful icebergs.

We have approached the ice giant.

"Here's another riddle for scientists," said Cherevichny.

I noticed:

- Maybe this is a guest from that same unknown land north of Wrangel?

- Hardly. It probably came from the Canadian Islands,” Cherevichny objected. “In any case, many will dispute the existence of an iceberg here, although here it is, before our eyes, sparkling with all the colors of the rainbow.

Soon we were walking over mountain range Wrangel Islands. A village on a spit near the sea. The wind farm and radio masts stand out clearly. Nearby, on the ice of the lagoon, a stripe of a landing field gleams dully.

- An excellent natural springboard for our jumps to the "pole of inaccessibility"! - the pilots agreed, having examined the airfield.

So, Rogers Bay is the starting point of the expedition. Here we have to carefully check the material part, equipment for autonomous life on drifting ice, test the devices in operation at low temperatures. For two days now I have been counting on a sheet of Whatman paper a grid of "conditional meridians" - a map of the "pole of inaccessibility" area, a map that is not found anywhere else. We had to give an answer: is there an ocean or land? What are the depths, what is the magnetic field strength of the Earth, is there life in the icy abyss of the ocean, and much more that interested science.

The plane was a "flying laboratory". Astronomy, hydrology, actinometry, magnetology, hydrobiology, meteorology, and finally, the study of air navigation methods at high latitudes - this is the list of topics that had to be worked on during three flights and three planned ice landings in the study area.

For a long time, the flight weight of the car exceeded the norm, and the cargo kept coming, and everything was the most necessary ...

The flight was delayed by a blizzard for a week. The wind reached at times such a frenzied force that stones flew from the blackened mountains.

On April 2, the anticyclone brought clear frosty weather, which, according to weather forecasts, was to spread to the entire Arctic basin. At 21 o'clock our plane took off and went around the mountains, which it was impossible to cross in an overloaded car.

Shekurov closely followed the numerous arrows on the instruments, and we listened intently to the roar of the engines. The frozen ocean flooded with light went beyond the distant horizon. What awaits us there?

The aircraft was heading with a solar compass. In front of the pilots, an orange disk was reflected on a matte screen. To keep the right direction, you need to keep it in the center of the screen. By the sun, we also calculate the location of the aircraft. Every fifteen minutes I measure the height of the sun with a sextant, then determine the drift and ground speed of the machine.

We have been on the road for more than four hours. Dul strong wind, which carried the aircraft to the left. In addition, apparently, from the cold, no, no, yes, the clock mechanism of the solar compass stopped. Every eight minutes I had to crawl out into the astronomical hatch and, under the burning icy wind, set the thin levers of the device's periscope in motion with my hands.

At two o'clock on April 3, we passed the landing site of G. Wilkins in 1927. Here he measured the depth of the ocean with an echo sounder. Beyond that stretched an icy expanse where no man had ever been.

We are constantly watching the horizon: every kilometer can bring something new. Even under protective glasses, you have to squint. An hour passes, then two, the engines hum rhythmically. The cabin is warm. Thanks to the orange color of the fuselage, the sun's rays warm the plane, you can sit without gloves.

There are many ice floes suitable for landing. This makes me happy. But will there be such ice ahead?

“Something is not visible here! Cherevichny says disappointedly.

“They should not be, the ocean is too deep,” the hydrologist Chernigov categorically answers.

“Wait, let's sit down and check,” astronomer Ostrekin takes a neutral position.

Shekurov enters the cabin with sandwiches and a large thermos of coffee. The dispute ends.

Although our program does not include the discovery of new lands, but who knows?

Landing in 40 minutes. Increasingly, I take the heights of the sun. Finally, I ask my comrades to get ready. A heap of hummocks appears below, behind them - a young field of ice of autumn formation, squeezed from all sides by a heavy pack. The snow surface is temptingly glittering. We make a circle, then the second, trying to determine the strength of the field by eye. Since it can withstand the pressure of the surrounding ice, it means that it will not crack under the plane either. We fall to the portholes.
- Let's go?

- Let's go! - several voices answer simultaneously, and I throw smoke bombs on the ice.

Bathing in the rays of the sun over the ice, where no man has yet been, the purple banner of our Motherland proudly flutters. Intoxicating joy embraces us. Without hats, closely surrounding the flagpole, we shout, sing, overflowing with happiness.

Hydrologist Chernigov, all wrapped in furs, taps his foot on the ice:

- Here it is, the "pole of inaccessibility"! We assign a serial number to our ice floe - 1. Its coordinates are 81 ° 27 "north latitude and 181 ° 15" east longitude.

Sasha Makarov, our tireless radio operator, has already informed Moscow of the landing.

Life on ice floe No. 1 has begun. Each member of the expedition is busy with his own work.

I started building a meteorological station. Hydrologists, with the help of a flight engineer, set up an observation post, and deep winches were being assembled.

To cut through the ice floe, I had to use ammonite. A booming explosion shook the icy silence. A tent was set up over the hole, and soon the engine began to crackle, lowering a steel cable into the ocean, hung with instruments for testing water, soil and measuring temperatures.

Ostrekin, between astronomical observations, measured the forces of terrestrial magnetism, Makarov and Cherevichny installed antennas, and Kaminsky cooked dinner.

It's a polar day over the camp. The sun no longer set below the horizon and burned dazzlingly all day and night.

By lunchtime, the camp was a whole tent city. Each tent has its own name. The largest one, where we gathered for a friendly conversation after a working day, was called the "Palace of Soviets", the mechanics' tent - the "Technology House", the magnetologist's tent - the "House of Science".

On the very first day of life on the ice floe, sitting in the "Palace of Soviets" on soft reindeer skins and sleeping bags, we listened to the news: hydrologist Libin said that at a depth of 2647 meters the lot had reached the bottom. This is unexpected, but before us is bottom soil. Thus, the depth of the ocean in the region of the "pole of relative inaccessibility" turned out to be two times less than Wilkins determined.

- Wilkins, no doubt, was mistaken, - said Libin. - We'll have to make adjustments to the geographical maps.

“Yes, but it was almost three hundred and fifty kilometers to the south,” I remarked. “It is possible that the depth there exceeded five thousand meters.
"The ocean floor doesn't have such sharp transitions," Libin disagreed...

There was a smell of cold, and Chernigovsky appeared in the tent, carefully clutching something to his chest.

“Look, the ocean has the richest life! he almost shouted, pointing to a vessel filled with water, where small crustacean creatures scurried about.

“These protozoa are good food for more complex organisms,” Chernigovskii declared with conviction. “There must be seals here.

Regular scientific shifts began in the morning. In the camp, the winch motor was constantly pounding. At a depth of 300 meters, under water with a negative temperature, we found a layer of warm water that reached a thickness of 750 isobaths. Undoubtedly, it was a mighty Atlantic current that reached the Arctic Ocean.

On the second day, a direct radiotelephone connection with Moscow was established. Continuously, day and night, scientific observations were made, resting in fits and starts. Tired, barely moving their legs, people crawled into the tent and immediately fell asleep. The wind blew heat out of the tents, and even with continuously burning stoves the temperature rarely rose above minus 18-20°C. It was especially hard to wake up and go outside. However, I had to go out, and not for a minute, but for several hours. The clothes hardened from the frost and rattled as they moved, like wood.

Sending radiograms to the mainland, we have not yet spread too much about our work. This was especially distressing for Sasha Makarov, who also worked as a special correspondent for a number of central newspapers. However, he found a way out of the situation and transmitted through Khabarovsk a detailed story about the landing and the first days of life on the ice floe.

On April 5, the weather began to deteriorate, piles of snow covered our tents. But it got warmer. The wind gradually turned into a storm. So, in order not to get lost in the unsteady darkness, I had to walk along the flags arranged in chains. And everyone was constantly listening: is the ice breaking somewhere? In the hole near the hydrological tent, the water level fluctuated all the time. Obviously, large spaces formed not far away clean water and the excitement came to us.

Everyone was interested in the direction of the drift of the ice floe. It was found out that it, slowly rotating counterclockwise, moved with the general flow of ice to the northwest at an average speed of about seven kilometers per day.

The blizzard finally stopped, but a new concern appeared: the wind spoiled the airfield. Emergency work began to clear the snowdrifts. During dinner, Kaminsky looked with special approval at the eaters who gathered after a twenty-hour day in the frosty air. On the third day of shock work, he said:

Scientific research on ice floe No. 1 is completed, we are closing the camp. The weather station was the last to be photographed, after I recorded the latest weather data. The plane's engines roared. Our ice floe now seemed deserted and lonely. We got used to it, and in parting, to be honest, we involuntarily felt sad.

On the thirteenth of April we will start from Wrangel to the area of ​​the second landing on the drifting ice of the “white spot”. As on the first flight, we were blown to the west all the time. Below was a multi-year pack. Then came huge leads, and the ice bore traces of fresh hummocking. Then the hilly fields of the heavy, solid ice, in terms of power and age surpassing the pack of the North Pole, the Greenland Strait and in general all high latitudes, where we had to be before and then. This time we circled for about forty minutes, looking for an acceptable site. Heavy, raised and hilly ice was not suitable for landing even a training aircraft. Finally, we opted for an old lead covered with even snow-covered ice.

- Will it survive? Let's dive to Neptune? The pilots look at me questioningly.

“Judging by the old blowers, the thickness is at least one hundred and fifty centimeters, and a meter is enough for us,” I answer and drop the smoke bombs down.

Pilots fasten their seat belts and go along the line of smoke to land. The plane jumps hard over the hardened snow sastrugi and stops. We jump out, inspect the skis. They endured. We solemnly raise the flag of the Motherland.

Ice floe No. 2 is surrounded on all sides by white snow-covered hills resembling dunes. As if in a valley, brightly lit by the sun, our orange plane was standing. They quickly set up camp, set up a radio station, installed scientific instruments - the experience of working on the first ice floe had an effect.

In the morning, examining the field, I find traces of a polar fox. This is truly a discovery. After all, we were told all the time that here is the "pole of lifelessness." And suddenly a fox! As a result of the drift, a few days later we found ourselves in the vicinity of the Wilkins-Eyelsen landing area. We measured the depth. It turned out to be equal to 1856 meters. We are convinced that the Americans were mistaken.

The warm layer of ocean water discovered on the first ice floe also conducted here. Comparing these facts with the results of studies in other sectors of the Arctic, we came to the conclusion that the Atlantic waters, like a giant "heating plant", permeate the entire Arctic basin.

On the morning of April 16, after another watch, I crawled into a tent that stood under the wing of the plane, and, undressing, climbed into a sleeping bag. A small orange tent with double silk walls and a pneumatic floor could accommodate only two people. Borukin was already asleep, and the steam from his breath, escaping from the slits of the bag, settled like frost on the low ceiling. He fell asleep instantly, but suddenly felt a sharp push. Outside, something rumbled. Borukin grabbed my hand and whispered a warning:

- Hush, bear!
— Where? What are you talking about?

- Wow, look...

I looked, and on the cloth, illuminated by the sun's rays, I saw the silhouette of a huge bear. He then approached, blocking the light, then moved away. Behind the walls of the tent, screams and the sound of metal could be heard.

— My weapon is on the plane. What do you have?

“Only a knife,” I answered quietly and, holding the blade in my hand, crawled towards the exit. Having unlaced the sleeve-shaped exit, he cautiously looked out: right in front of me the black eyes of the beast shone. The bear looked at me warily, with curiosity, sucking in air with noise. Reeling back, I decided to cut the tent from the opposite side and run to the plane for a carbine. Through the cut wall, I saw a picture that still stands before my eyes. Cherevichny, Shekurov and Durmanenko with burning stoves, clattering buckets, advanced on the bear with a deployed front. The beast growled and slowly backed toward the plane. At this time, the legs of Kaminsky appeared from the hatch of the car, who did not know about the bear and was descending with his back to him. The beast, attracted by the kitchen smells of Kaminsky's malitsa, rushed towards him. Kaminsky instantly found himself in the cockpit, grabbed a rifle, jumped out onto the ice.

Don't shoot, don't shoot! Cherevichny shouted, rapidly clicking the watering can. The bear made several jumps and slowly, I would say, even with dignity wandered into the hummocks.

- What a fantasy! - Kaminsky got angry. - So the chops are gone.

- Easy to kill. Think of something else, there is a fierce desert all around and all of a sudden a sort of mighty life,” Cherevichny said cheerfully.

— In addition, the owner of the Arctic paid us a courtesy call.

“We should have killed immediately,” the hydrologist insisted. “His stomach would tell us a lot about the local fauna and flora.

Less than an hour later, the bear reappeared in the camp, busily sniffing all the objects that were encountered along the way. He was in a peaceful mood, and after consulting, we decided not to kill the "guest". The bear entertained us during the rest of our life on the ice. He busily delved into the garbage, with pleasure he ate everything that was thrown to him. He was especially fond of condensed milk, deftly opening the jar with his terrible fangs. We were already used to it, but everyone carried weapons with them. One day I decided to follow what the beast does when it leaves us. And I found him three hundred meters from the plane. He lay on a high hummock and watched the camp. Noticing the man, the bear laid his head on his front paws and began to vigilantly follow my every movement. For several minutes we studied each other. There was no ill will in the bear's eyes, they shone with attention and curiosity. But then a breeze blew from the kitchen of the camp, the bear jumped up and, politely bypassing me, walked towards the tents. I followed him. The beast never looked back.

Over the years of work in the Arctic, we have perfectly studied the nature of these animals. A polar bear attacks a person if it is hungry. In such moments, he is scary and vicious. But out of curiosity, he can come close to a person and, if at this moment he is scared, he can attack. But most of the time it goes away. When attacked, it never rises to its hind legs, but jumps like a tiger. Our bear was well fed and probably never met a human.

The diverse world of the ocean depths, the tracks of the arctic fox, and finally, the appearance of the bear proved undeniably that, contrary to the assumption, there is no “pole of lifelessness” in the Central Arctic basin. On the morning of April 17 scientific stations one after the other completed the measurements. The plane was already standing with the engines running. Everyone was in place. At that moment, our guest, or rather the "master", came out of the hummocks and busily went to the plane.

Look, I've come to say goodbye! Ostrekin laughed.

The engines howled, and the frightened bear rushed over the icy hills.

After processing the urgent material of ice floe No. 2, the USSR-N-169 again took to the skies. This time we were supposed to land at 80° north latitude and 190° east longitude, but when we got to the given latitude, we encountered large expanses of open water, which was a complete surprise. The weather soon deteriorated. Low clouds and heavy snow pressed us to the surface of the ocean. An hour later, heavy icing began. The car was heavy from the growing ice. Broke the antenna. The tail vibrated, the glass of the navigator's room was covered with a layer of frosted ice. Chunks of ice, washed off the propeller blades with alcohol, rumble against the corrugation of the fuselage.

Cherevichny nods at the altimeter. It shows only 30 meters!

"That's when I don't want to open Harris Land!" - he says very seriously, without a smile.

Yes, in a blind flight, at low altitude, a meeting with an unknown land would threaten with a catastrophe.

At a latitude of 83 ° 30 "the weather worsened even more. Scientists sleep peacefully. No wonder the pilots say: "The most daring pilots are passengers."

Only an hour and a half later we got to the good weather. Obviously, while we were rushing about in the blizzard and fog, the front of the cyclone had passed. I declare that below we need the intersection of latitude and longitude. As if by order, the sun breaks through the clouds, and we saw a large flat field among the rearing ice.

Landing on the third ice floe proved difficult. The left ski received a wide crack along the entire massive sole from impacts on ice packs. Shekurov, having carefully examined her, reassured us:

- While you are busy with your underwater kingdom, the ski will be repaired.

Ice floe No. 3 was just perfect in size and thickness, but it turned out to be strewn with sastrugi. Everyone who was released from the watch went to clear the runway. Measured the depth of the ocean: 3368 meters! The coordinates have been clarified - 79 ° 59 "northern latitude, 190 ° 05" eastern longitude. The plane landed at a given point.

After the end of the expedition, looking through the newspapers a month ago, we proudly read in Pravda the article “The amazing accuracy of polar explorers” ... And then a simple feeling of a duty well done created a festive mood for everyone. So many congratulatory radiograms came to us on the ice floe that Makarov barely had time to receive them. Leaving the ice floe and the area of ​​the “pole of inaccessibility”, we were sure that we would return here soon, armed with experience and even more advanced technology.

Solemnly, with great honor, Moscow met the expedition. On May 17, Pravda wrote in an editorial: “... With composure and fearlessness, Cherevichny and his comrades made their flights and observations on ice floes ...”

Valentin Akkuratov, Honored Navigator of the USSR

To the Pole of Relative Inaccessibility

Even before leaving for Antarctica, I set out to reach the Pole of relative inaccessibility at all costs and create a base there. We have been preparing for this difficult task all winter. Each truck was painstakingly repaired by our transport team, and then they took it out into the street and put it in line with other cars that were shiny with new paint. By spring, a line of tractors and all-terrain vehicles stood ready for the march in Mirny.

In September, they began to prepare the train. Selected personnel, staffed equipment.

On October 23, 1958, a train of six heavy tractors, one all-terrain vehicle "Penguin" and seven sledges left Mirny for deep Antarctica. About 270 tons of equipment and food were loaded on them. Personnel consisted of 21 people. I appointed A.F. Nikolaev as the head of the train.

Since urgent business did not allow me to leave Mirny for a long time, I decided to take part in the campaign only at the last stage - from Sovetskaya station to the Pole of relative inaccessibility.

The first 50 kilometers were on freshly fallen snow. Caterpillars and runners went deep into the snow. With difficulty overcame a steep climb at the 75th kilometer from Mirny. Here they took the previously delivered fuel and went further into the depths of the continent. As before, on the section to Pionerskaya station, the most unpleasant obstacle was not frost, but sastrugi. The shaking was so strong that resting drivers could not sleep in their bunks.

On the way, the participants of the campaign carried out meteorological, magnetic, gravimetric, glaciological and seismic studies. Conducting scientific work required long stops. But we were not interested in sports records, but in scientific discoveries.

On November 12, the train arrived at Komsomolskaya station. Here the train was reformed. To deliver cargo to Vostok station, it was planned to send three all-terrain vehicles and one tractor, and five tractors and one accompanying all-terrain vehicle with fuel to Sovetskaya station and the Pole of relative inaccessibility.

Eight days later, on November 20, the train left Komsomolskaya station in the direction of the Pole. The snow was very loose, the track depth reached 50-60 centimeters, the tractors often slipped, we had to go in pairs of two or three cars. Often the fingers of the tracks of the caterpillars broke. Changing steel fingers with a sledgehammer was very difficult. Even seasoned drivers felt the height and oxygen deficiency.

At 230 kilometers from Komsomolskaya, after refueling the tractors with fuel, the all-terrain vehicle turned back. It had to send two drivers who fell ill with mountain sickness.

On November 29, the train arrived at Sovetskaya station, where for several days research work according to a broad program, and the tractors were preparing for the last stage of the campaign.

On November 30, I flew from Mirny to Sovetskaya. I was carrying a bust of V. I. Lenin with me, having decided to install it in the center of Antarctica.

Arriving at Sovetskaya station, I first of all asked the doctor of Sovetskaya VG Konstantinov about the state of health of the participants in the campaign. (Here it must be said that Konstantinov turned out to be as good a cook as he was a doctor, as I could verify by tasting the dinner he prepared. And at a polar station, and even at an inland station, a good cook is already a guarantee of health.) The results were disappointing. . Three more people had to be sent by plane to Mirny - a driver and two bombers. This put us in a difficult position, but I did not want and had no right to risk the health of the expedition members. Experience has shown that not every organism can withstand great heights and especially hard work in the rarefied air of high mountains. Therefore, I decided at first not to force things, but to get used to the local conditions. V. K. Babarykin gave me a bunk, and I spent the first day mostly in a supine position. Fortunately, I can tolerate altitude well and adapt quickly.

The next day, I already got acquainted with the employees of the station and its facilities. I had the most favorable impression. It was impossible not to admire these people. In the most difficult conditions, the station staff under the leadership of V.K. Babarykin did everything to ensure that here, in the depths of the continent, one could live and work normally. The program of scientific work was carried out clearly, without the slightest disruption. I took Babarykin with me as head of the Pole of Relative Inaccessibility station, intending to entrust him with the organization and production of meteorological observations.

On December 3, 1958, a train of four tractors, each of which had one sled on a trailer, left Sovetskaya station in the direction of the Pole of relative inaccessibility. The personnel of the train included 18 people: besides me, the train included - the head of the train A.F. Nikolaev, V.K. Babarykin, the navigator Yu.N. Avsyuk, the head of the glaciological train X.Ya. Sorokhtin and V. I. Koptev, chef S. P. Shleifer, driller S. V. Romakin, radio operator E. G. Vetrov, drivers V. D. Yakimchuk, L. D. Donin, A P. Erokhin, V. F. Zadvornikov, A. F. Parshin, A. N. Stepanenko, A. F. Ivanov, and V. I. Gumenyuk.

The further movement of the train was fraught with great difficulties. In some places, the tractors got stuck in deep snow. I had to move by shuttle with a couple of two tractors per sled. The track pins broke. Tractor tracks had to be repaired at an altitude of more than 3400 meters above sea level and in 50-degree frosts. To knock out a broken finger from the track in case of oxygen deficiency, it was necessary to make great physical efforts. Sometimes it seemed that the task in view, due to the late time, was impossible. However, we persevered and persevered forward. It was encouraging that difficult sections were replaced by harder crust and then the tractors went much easier.

Having traveled more than 100 kilometers from Sovetskaya, we stopped for a rest to have lunch, repair tractors and make regular scientific observations. The drivers, as usual, began to knock out the fingers of the trucks with a sledgehammer. And suddenly we heard the rumble of Antarctica. A deafening sound, similar to the sound of hitting an empty wooden barrel, but several thousand times stronger. Literally Antarctica was buzzing. After the first blow, we hit the tracks with a sledgehammer several more times - the result is the same. Antarctica was buzzing. We are all living people, of course, and such sounds made us uncomfortable. Obviously there is a void somewhere. But where? They began to inspect the area - all around was a white desert. I climbed the highest beam. All the same snow, nothing more. Nevertheless, I considered that further advance without reconnaissance was risky. He instructed V. M. Perov to fly from Mirny to us and reconnoiter the relief along our forthcoming route. Soon the plane was over us.

This is how the participant V. L. Lebedev describes this flight.

“They dropped a load of fingers into the location of the train to repair the tracks. Then the plane headed for the Pole of relative inaccessibility. We informed E.I. Tolstikov that no cracks were visible on the upcoming route and that nothing inspires fear for the fate of the tractors. Then the plane turned around and went north. Returning to Mirny, visited Mount Brown. En route, barometric leveling of the ice sheet was carried out. Several unknown geographic features were discovered. At 75°12" S, 61°00" E, 850 kilometers south of the station Mawson, noticed a separate pyramidal peak, having an altitude of 3300 meters above sea level. Along the 74th parallel from 60 ° 00 "E. up to 63 ° 30 "E., a mountain range was observed. The two-headed mountain at the point 74 ° 10 "S, 63 ° 20" E was especially distinguished. The next group of mountains was passed at a latitude of 73 ° 45 "S. between meridians 64°20"E and 66°00"E It has about 6 peaks. The group is the southern, uncharted end of the Prince Charles Mountains. All passed mountains have a normal blocky structure, many peaks are table-shaped. Further, two groups of nunataks were discovered, not marked on the map. The first of 4 peaked nunataks is located at 73°35"S, 70°10"E, the second of three nunatak clusters is located at 73°15"S, 72°10"E. At 73°40"S, 71°40"E. two ice domes of the Masson type were discovered. At coordinates 74°50"S, 62°10"E. crossed the beginning of the glacier, oriented along the meridian and located in the hollow of the ice sheet.

After a detailed reconnaissance, V. M. Perov reported on the radio that there was nothing but snow all around and along the route. Of course, you won’t notice snow bridges over abysses from the air.

I made the decision to keep moving. Fortunately, everything went well. If there were snow bridges along the way over cracks and chasms, they were strong enough to support our train. By the way, measurements of the thickness of ice and snow showed that at that time we were above an ice mountain up to 3500 meters high, the snow thickness in these places was 500 meters. This is at the measurement site. Obviously, somewhere this thickness could be less. It is possible that in the area of ​​​​our route there were snow voids, which determined this strange rumble.

At the 160th kilometer from Sovetskaya, the surface of the glacier suddenly began to rise gently. Then there were two more big rises with a length of 4-5 kilometers. As it turned out later, it was the highest place on the entire route - about 4000 meters above sea level. We named this region the Sovetskoye Plateau.

The lower the alcohol in the thermometer fell, the greater the heights became and the more acutely we felt the lack of air.

Good equipment saved us from the cold. The participants of the campaign were dressed in cotton-down suits, leather suits with fur, fur trousers, high fur boots, fur hats. Good and regular nutrition was of great importance. Food was prepared in an electric caboose while the train was moving, so that we could refresh ourselves with lunch or dinner at the stops.

The experience of the first hikes showed that meat and cereals boil very slowly and poorly at altitude, so dinners were prepared from semi-finished products (dumplings, chicken, cutlets, etc.), which were prepared frozen in Mirny.

I rode in the head tractor, where there was a radio station. A.F. Nikolaev and the radio operator were located in the same beam. They slept on two-story bunks in sleeping bags, heated with coal (cast-iron stove). The toilet was in the vestibule beam. We dined in the galley.

Shortly before arriving at the intended point, we received a message that four Belgian polar explorers had disappeared somewhere in the mountains south of Baudouin station. A Belgian radio station broadcast an SOS and asked for help from anyone who heard it. What to do? We have a lot of work ourselves. We agreed with V. M. Perov that he would fly in and land at the Pole of Inaccessibility on a Li-2 aircraft. And yet, the Belgian polar explorers need to be rescued. Sent a request to Moscow. An answer came from the head of polar aviation M.I. Shevelev - if you provide assistance, then fly in two planes for insurance. I could not allow this. We needed aviation. He called V. M. Perov for a radiotelephone conversation. They consulted and decided - Perov to fly with the crew on the same plane. This exciting episode will be discussed in the future, but for now let's return to the everyday life of our campaign.

On December 14, 1958, the train reached the Pole of relative inaccessibility, Yu. N. Avsyuk determined the coordinates - 82 ° 06 "S, 54 ° 58" E. e. This is the point located at the greatest distance from all the coasts of Antarctica, that is, the geometric center of Antarctica. A place where no man has ever been before.

On the very first day, they installed a radio mast, a residential beam and equipped a permanent radio station. We set up a weather station and started observing. A well was drilled to a depth of 60 meters.

Near the station, they picked up a place for the runway and for two days, led by the driver-mechanic L. D. Donin, they rolled the snow for landing the Li-2 aircraft on skis.

Soon, the flag of our Motherland was hoisted on the mast, and on a residential beam, on a high pedestal, a bust of Lenin was erected, to His gaze turned to Moscow. Until now, the flag of our Motherland flutters in the center of Antarctica and there is a bust of V. I. Lenin.

So, another victory - the Pole of Inaccessibility of Antarctica was taken by Soviet polar explorers.

On the same day, I sent a telegram to Moscow, to the Main Northern Sea Route:

"I report: on December 14, 14.45 Moscow time, a train of tractors arrived at the Pole of Inaccessibility of Antarctica, passing from Mirny a distance of about 2200 km through loose snow at an altitude of up to 4000 m, scientific work, including seismic, gravimetric. The personnel are healthy. Point 82 ° 06" south 55 ° 00 "East, at an altitude of 3710 m above sea level, the Pole of Inaccessibility station for episodic scientific observations and the base for inland trips were created. A beam house for 4 people with a radio station, call sign RSON, with an engine, a weather station, index 89555, an electric galley, food supplies and fuel 2-3 months.The station has a well 60 m deep.Currently, meteorological, actinometric, magnetic, glaciological and seismic work is being carried out at the station Pole of Inaccessibility.An airfield for ski planes is being prepared.The national flag of the USSR is hoisted on the mast, on the elevation of the house -beam installed a bust of Lenin. Tolstikov".

Another radio message from the Pole of Inaccessibility:

"Intracontinental train Little America, Mawson, copy to Bugaev.

Pole of relative inaccessibility. At point 8206 south 5500 east at sea level 3710, the Soviet expedition created a station for episodic scientific observations, meteorological index 89555, call sign of the RSON radio station. It will currently run until December 20th. Tolstikov".

They say appetite comes with eating. Having taken the Pole of inaccessibility, we began to dream of further advancement - to the geographical pole. We calculated the fuel - it will be enough to get on one tractor to the American station Amundsen-Scott.

There was a proposal to ask the Americans for fuel on the way back. (Of course, we had plenty of fuel, which was needed to return the tractors to Mirny.) A.F. Nikolaev was ready to carry out this operation - to go from the Pole of Inaccessibility to the geographical Pole and return back. However, for a number of reasons, I did not take risks this time. We fulfilled the task set before us and even exceeded it. We were running out of time. It was not worth tempting fate. True, I was tempted to fly along this route by plane with a landing at the geographic pole, but I did not want to disturb the Americans.

In the first days of their stay at the Pole of Inaccessibility (December 15), a radiogram came from V. M. Perov with a message that the Belgians had been found.

A lot of things have accumulated in Mirny. It was urgent to return. The experience of our expedition has shown that with a large amount of work in the expedition, it is impossible for the leader to be distracted for a long time to perform private tasks. Although these private tasks are both interesting and honorable, in order to fulfill the main goals of the expedition, one must sacrifice one's own interests.

On December 18, a Li-2 plane (pilot N.A. Shkolnikov) flew in from Mirny and landed at the Pole of Inaccessibility. This plane delivered a variety of cargo, and most importantly - the fingers for the tractors, which damnably broke. The delivered fingers were knocked out of the tractors that were in Mirny. There were no spares.

On the same day I flew to Mirny. With me on board were X. Ya. Zakiev, who completed the work, S. V. Romakin and S. P. Shleifer. It should be said that our plane hardly broke away from the rolled strip and just before takeoff ran a little over virgin soil. I was even scared for the outcome of the takeoff and at the same time surprised. After all, we calculated the flight weight of the aircraft accurately and did not allow overload. I started to figure out what was the matter. It turned out that one passenger, not wanting to leave some tools and pieces of iron, slowly stuffed the plane with them, which naturally led to an overload of the plane. So frivolity almost led to misfortune and disruption of the operation.

The flight went off without a hitch, and we arrived in Mirny on the same day. The train was at the Pole of Inaccessibility until December 26th. A large complex of scientific works and regular meteorological observations were carried out. The Pole of Inaccessibility was located at an altitude of 3720 meters above sea level. The thickness of the ice in this place is 2950 meters, the height of bedrock under the ice is 770 meters.

On December 14, stationary meteorological observations were started at the Pole of relative inaccessibility station.

At the end of the seismic survey, the conversion of the combined sleigh house for use in a stationary position was started. A warm vestibule was built at the main entrance door. The extension to the beam was converted into a food warehouse.

A meteorological site was set up 30 meters from the residential building - a psychrometric booth with a set of thermometers and a hair hygrometer, an actinometric stand, thermometers on the snow surface, remote meteorological station (DMS) sensors on a standard 6-meter mast and three snow gauges. Meteorological and actinometric observations were carried out at the weather station 4 times a day: at 3, 9, 15 and 21 hours Moscow time (0, 6, 12 and 18 hours GMT).

Seismic observations were carried out on two profiles, including the determination of the thickness and structure of the ice sheet and ultrasonic multichannel logging of the snow-firn strata. According to the program of glaciological observations, the density and hardness of the snow cover were determined, its relief and structure were described, surface and bedrock (up to a depth of 10-15 meters) snow samples were taken, and its temperature was measured at various depths (up to 50 meters).

An accelerated series of observations was made to determine the horizontal and vertical components magnetic field Earth. Several series of gravimetric observations were carried out.

During the observation period, the meteorological conditions in the station area were typical of the interior regions of Antarctica and differed little from the conditions at Sovetskaya station. For a short 12-day observation period, it is impossible to give a complete characterization of the climate even for the summer season. However, some features can be noted.

Thus, the passage of cyclones is accompanied here by more characteristic signs of cyclonic weather than in the area of ​​Sovetskaya station.

The air temperature ranged from -27.5 to -37.4 degrees. The diurnal temperature variation, although insignificant in amplitude, is clearly expressed in time - a maximum in the middle of the day and a minimum in the early morning hours. The temperature of the glacier, determined in the well at the level of zero amplitudes, gives reason to believe that the average annual air temperature is in the range from -67.5 to -58.0 degrees.

Atmospheric pressure ranged from 603.8 to 613.9 millibars. The pressure stroke is smooth. Relative humidity fluctuated slightly: from 44 to 63%. The north wind direction prevailed, the average speed was 3.6 m/s. The cloud cover was predominantly cirrus. The average cloudiness for 12 days was 2.1 points.

On December 21, the conservation of the station was carried out. The polar explorers left a supply of food for 4-5 months for four people and a note with a request, if necessary, to use the products.

It should be said that after our trip to the station there were three more expeditions, including one American. All of them noted that the station was in excellent condition and thanked the discoverers (their names were on the board attached to the beam).

It is important that as a result of this trip, we found that under the ice of Antarctica there is not an ocean, but solid rocks. Along the route we passed a huge ice ridge up to 3500 meters high. It should also be said that twenty-two ground signs (barrels, milestones, houris, etc.) were installed along the route.

The way back from the Pole of Inaccessibility station to Sovetskaya passed along the old track. On January 3, 1959, the train arrived at Sovetskaya. To take out all the tractors from here, five driver-mechanics were delivered by plane. The employees who spent the winter here were transported to Mirny by the same aircraft.

The train, now consisting of seven tractors, left for Komsomolskaya station. Due to a strong blizzard, the train moved with difficulty. One badly battered car had to be left halfway. On January 10, the train arrived at Komsomolskaya and moved on the next day.

On January 14, the Pionerskaya station was mothballed, and the winterers were taken out by plane. On January 18, the train arrived at Mirny. So, the train was on the road for 88 days and during this time it covered 4300 kilometers.

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