Even in the late Middle Ages, the lands located between the Neman and Vistula rivers received their name East Prussia. Throughout its existence, this power has experienced various periods. This is the time of the order, and the Prussian duchy, and then the kingdom, and the province, as well as the post-war country until the renaming due to the redistribution between Poland and the Soviet Union.

History of the possessions

More than ten centuries have passed since the first mention of the Prussian lands. Initially, the people inhabiting these territories were divided into clans (tribes), which were separated by conventional borders.

The expanses of Prussian possessions covered the part of Poland and Lithuania that now exists. These included Sambia and Skalovia, Warmia and Pogesania, Pomesania and Kulm land, Natangia and Bartia, Galindia and Sassen, Skalovia and Nadrovia, Mazovia and Sudovia.

Numerous conquests

Prussian lands throughout their existence were constantly subject to attempts at conquest by stronger and more aggressive neighbors. So, in the twelfth century, the Teutonic knights - the crusaders - came to these rich and alluring spaces. They built numerous fortresses and castles, for example Kulm, Reden, Thorn.

However, in 1410, after the famous Battle of Grunwald, the territory of the Prussians began to smoothly pass into the hands of Poland and Lithuania.

The Seven Years' War in the eighteenth century undermined the strength of the Prussian army and led to some eastern lands being conquered by the Russian Empire.

In the twentieth century, military actions also did not spare these lands. Beginning in 1914, East Prussia was involved in the First World War and, in 1944, in the Second World War.

And after the victory of the Soviet troops in 1945, it ceased to exist altogether and was transformed into the Kaliningrad region.

Existence between the wars

During the First World War, East Prussia suffered heavy losses. The 1939 map had already had changes, and the updated province was in terrible condition. After all, it was the only territory of Germany that was swallowed up by military battles.

The signing of the Treaty of Versailles was costly for East Prussia. The winners decided to reduce its territory. Therefore, from 1920 to 1923, the city of Memel and the Memel region began to be governed by the League of Nations with the help of French troops. But after the January uprising of 1923, the situation changed. And already in 1924, these lands became part of Lithuania with the rights of an autonomous region.

In addition, East Prussia also lost the territory of Soldau (the city of Dzialdowo).

In total, about 315 thousand hectares of land were disconnected. And this is a considerable territory. As a result of these changes, the remaining province found itself in a difficult situation, accompanied by enormous economic difficulties.

Economic and political situation in the 20s and 30s.

In the early twenties, after the normalization of diplomatic relations between the Soviet Union and Germany, the standard of living of the population in East Prussia began to gradually improve. The Moscow-Konigsberg airline was opened, the German Oriental Fair was resumed, and the Konigsberg city radio station began operating.

Nevertheless, the global economic crisis has not spared these ancient lands. And in five years (1929-1933) in Koenigsberg alone, five hundred and thirteen different enterprises went bankrupt, and the number of people increased to one hundred thousand. In such a situation, taking advantage of the precarious and uncertain position of the current government, the Nazi Party took control into its own hands.

Redistribution of territory

A considerable number of changes were made to the geographical maps of East Prussia before 1945. The same thing happened in 1939 after the occupation of Poland by the troops of Nazi Germany. As a result of the new zoning, part of the Polish lands and the Klaipeda (Memel) region of Lithuania were formed into a province. And the cities of Elbing, Marienburg and Marienwerder became part of the new district of West Prussia.

The Nazis launched grandiose plans for the repartition of Europe. And the map of East Prussia, in their opinion, was to become the center of the economic space between the Baltic and Black Seas, subject to the annexation of the territories of the Soviet Union. However, these plans could not be translated into reality.

Post-war time

As Soviet troops arrived, East Prussia also gradually transformed. Military commandant's offices were created, of which by April 1945 there were already thirty-six. Their tasks were a recount of the German population, an inventory and a gradual transition to peaceful life.

In those years, thousands of German officers and soldiers were hiding throughout East Prussia, and groups engaged in sabotage and sabotage were active. In April 1945 alone, the military commandant’s office captured more than three thousand armed fascists.

However, ordinary German citizens also lived on the territory of Königsberg and in the surrounding areas. There were about 140 thousand people.

In 1946, the city of Koenigsberg was renamed Kaliningrad, as a result of which the Kaliningrad region was formed. And later the names of other settlements were changed. In connection with such changes, the existing 1945 map of East Prussia was also redone.

East Prussian lands today

Today, the Kaliningrad region is located on the former territory of the Prussians. East Prussia ceased to exist in 1945. And although the region is part of the Russian Federation, they are geographically separated. In addition to the administrative center - Kaliningrad (until 1946 it was named Koenigsberg), such cities as Bagrationovsk, Baltiysk, Gvardeysk, Yantarny, Sovetsk, Chernyakhovsk, Krasnoznamensk, Neman, Ozersk, Primorsk, Svetlogorsk are well developed. The region consists of seven urban districts, two cities and twelve districts. The main peoples living in this territory are Russians, Belarusians, Ukrainians, Lithuanians, Armenians and Germans.

Today, the Kaliningrad region ranks first in amber mining, storing in its depths about ninety percent of its world reserves.

Interesting places in modern East Prussia

And although today the map of East Prussia has been changed beyond recognition, the lands with the cities and villages located on them still preserve the memory of the past. The spirit of the vanished great country is still felt in the present Kaliningrad region in the cities that bore the names Tapiau and Taplaken, Insterburg and Tilsit, Ragnit and Waldau.

Excursions at the Georgenburg stud farm are popular among tourists. It existed as early as the beginning of the thirteenth century. The Georgenburg fortress was a haven for German knights and crusaders, whose main business was breeding horses.

Churches built in the fourteenth century (in the former cities of Heiligenwald and Arnau), as well as sixteenth-century churches in the territory of the former city of Tapiau, are still quite well preserved. These majestic buildings constantly remind people of the past times of prosperity of the Teutonic Order.

Knight's castles

The land, rich in amber reserves, has attracted German conquerors since ancient times. In the thirteenth century, the Polish princes, together with them, gradually seized these possessions and built numerous castles on them. The remains of some of them, being architectural monuments, still make an indelible impression on contemporaries today. The largest number of knight's castles were erected in the fourteenth and fifteenth centuries. Their construction sites were captured Prussian rampart-earthen fortresses. When building castles, traditions in the style of orderly Gothic architecture of the late Middle Ages were necessarily maintained. In addition, all buildings corresponded to a single plan for their construction. Nowadays, an unusual thing has been discovered in the ancient

The village of Nizovye is very popular among residents and guests. It houses a unique local history museum with ancient cellars. Having visited it, you can say with confidence that the entire history of East Prussia flashes before your eyes, starting from the times of the ancient Prussians and ending with the era of Soviet settlers.

I think that many residents of the Kaliningrad region, as well as many Poles, have repeatedly asked themselves the question - why does the border between Poland and the Kaliningrad region run this way and not otherwise? In this article we will try to understand how the border between Poland and the Soviet Union was formed on the territory of the former East Prussia.

Those who are at least a little knowledgeable in history know and remember that before the outbreak of the First World War, the Russian and German empires had, and partly it ran approximately the same as the current border of the Russian Federation with the Republic of Lithuania.

Then, as a result of events associated with the Bolsheviks coming to power in 1917 and a separate peace with Germany in 1918, the Russian Empire collapsed, its borders changed significantly, and individual territories that were once part of it received their own statehood. This is exactly what happened, in particular, with Poland, which regained independence in 1918. In the same year, 1918, the Lithuanians founded their own state.

Fragment of a map of the administrative divisions of the Russian Empire. 1914.

The results of the First World War, including Germany's territorial losses, were consolidated by the Treaty of Versailles in 1919. In particular, significant territorial changes occurred in Pomerania and West Prussia (the formation of the so-called “Polish corridor” and Danzig and its surrounding areas receiving the status of a “free city”) and East Prussia (the transfer of the Memel region (Memelland) to the control of the League of Nations).

Territorial losses of Germany after the end of the First World War. Source: Wikipedia.

The following (very minor) border changes in the southern part of East Prussia were associated with the results of the war carried out in Warmia and Mazury in July 1921. At its end, the population of most of the territories that Poland, counting on the fact that a significant number of ethnic Poles live there, would not mind annexing into the young Polish Republic. In 1923, the borders in the East Prussian region changed again: in the Memel region, the Union of Lithuanian Riflemen raised an armed uprising, the result of which was the entry of Memelland into Lithuania with autonomy rights and the renaming of Memel to Klaipeda. 15 years later, at the end of 1938, elections to the city council were held in Klaipeda, as a result of which the pro-German parties (acting as a single list) won with an overwhelming advantage. After on March 22, 1939, Lithuania was forced to accept Germany’s ultimatum on the return of Memelland to the Third Reich, on March 23, Hitler arrived in Klaipeda-Memel on the cruiser Deutschland, who then addressed the residents from the balcony of the local theater and received a parade of Wehrmacht units. Thus, the last peaceful territorial acquisition of Germany before the outbreak of World War II was formalized.

The redistribution of borders in 1939 did not end with the annexation of the Memel region to Germany. On September 1, the Polish campaign of the Wehrmacht began (the same date is considered by many historians to be the date of the beginning of World War II), and two and a half weeks later, on September 17, units of the Red Army entered Poland. By the end of September 1939, the Polish government in exile was formed, and Poland, as an independent territorial entity, ceased to exist again.

Fragment of a map of the administrative divisions of the Soviet Union. 1933.

The borders in East Prussia again underwent significant changes. Germany, represented by the Third Reich, having occupied a significant part of the territory of the Second Polish-Lithuanian Commonwealth, again received a common border with the heir of the Russian Empire, the Soviet Union.

The next, but not the last, change in borders in the region we are considering occurred after the end of World War II. It was based on decisions made by Allied leaders in Tehran in 1943 and then at the Yalta Conference in 1945. In accordance with these decisions, first of all, the future borders of Poland in the east, common with the USSR, were determined. Later, the Potsdam Agreement of 1945 finally determined that defeated Germany would lose the entire territory of East Prussia, part of which (about a third) would become Soviet, and most of which would become part of Poland.

By a decree of the Presidium of the Supreme Soviet of the USSR dated April 7, 1946, the Koenigsberg Region was formed on the territory of the Koenigsberg Special Military District, created after the victory over Germany, which became part of the RSFSR. Just three months later, by the Decree of the Presidium of the Supreme Soviet of the USSR dated July 4, 1946, Koenigsberg was renamed Kaliningrad, and the Koenigsberg region was renamed Kaliningrad.

Below we offer the reader a translation of the article (with slight abbreviations) by Wieslaw Kaliszuk, author and owner of the website “History of the Elbląg Upland” (Historija Wysoczyzny Elbląskiej), about how the process of border formation took placebetween Poland and the USSR in the territory former East Prussia.

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The current Polish-Russian border begins near the town of Wiżajny ( Wiżajny) in the Suwałki region at the junction of three borders (Poland, Lithuania and Russia) and ends in the west, at the town of Nowa Karczma on the Vistula (Baltic) Spit. The border was formed by a Polish-Soviet agreement signed in Moscow on August 16, 1945 by the Chairman of the Provisional Government of National Unity of the Polish Republic, Edward Osubka-Morawski, and the USSR Foreign Minister, Vyacheslav Molotov. The length of this section of the border is 210 km, which is approximately 5.8% of the total length of Poland's borders.

The decision on the post-war border of Poland was made by the Allies already in 1943 at a conference in Tehran (11/28/1943 – 12/01/1943). It was confirmed in 1945 by the Potsdam Agreement (07/17/1945 - 08/02/1945). In accordance with them, East Prussia was to be divided into the southern Polish part (Warmia and Mazury), and the northern Soviet part (about a third of the former territory of East Prussia), which on June 10, 1945 received the name “Königsberg Special Military District” (KOVO). From 07/09/1945 to 02/04/1946, the leadership of KOVO was entrusted to Colonel General K.N. Galitsky. Prior to this, the leadership of this part of East Prussia captured by Soviet troops was carried out by the Military Council of the 3rd Belorussian Front. The military commandant of this territory, Major General M.A. Pronin, appointed to this position on 06/13/1945, already on 07/09/1945 transferred all administrative, economic and military powers to General Galitsky. Major General B.P. was appointed Commissioner of the NKVD-NKGB of the USSR for East Prussia in the period from 11/03/1945 to 01/04/1946. Trofimov, who from May 24, 1946 to July 5, 1947 served as head of the Ministry of Internal Affairs of the Koenigsberg/Kaliningrad region. Before this, the post of NKVD Commissioner for the 3rd Belorussian Front was Colonel General V.S. Abakumov.

At the end of 1945, the Soviet part of East Prussia was divided into 15 administrative regions. Formally, the Königsberg region was formed on April 7, 1946 as part of the RSFSR, and on July 4, 1946, with the renaming of Königsberg to Kaliningrad, the region was also renamed Kaliningrad. On September 7, 1946, a decree of the Presidium of the Supreme Soviet of the USSR was issued on the administrative-territorial structure of the Kaliningrad region.

"Curzon Line" and the borders of Poland after the end of World War II. Source: Wikipedia.

The decision to move the eastern border to the west (approximately to the “Curzon Line”) and “territorial compensation” (Poland was losing 175,667 square kilometers of its territory in the east as of September 1, 1939) was made without the participation of the Poles by the leaders of the “Big Three” - Churchill, Roosevelt and Stalin during the conference in Tehran from November 28 to December 1, 1943. Churchill had to convey to the Polish government in exile all the “advantages” of this decision. During the Potsdam Conference (July 17 - August 2, 1945), Joseph Stalin made a proposal to establish Poland's western border along the Oder-Neisse line. Poland’s “friend” Winston Churchill refused to recognize Poland’s new western borders, believing that “under Soviet rule” it would become too strong due to the weakening of Germany, while not objecting to Poland’s loss of eastern territories.

Options for the border between Poland and the Kaliningrad region.

Even before the conquest of East Prussia, the Moscow authorities (read “Stalin”) determined the political borders in this region. Already on July 27, 1944, the future Polish border was discussed at a secret meeting with the Polish Committee of People's Liberation (PKNO). The first draft borders on the territory of East Prussia was presented to the PKNO State Defense Committee of the USSR (GKO USSR) on February 20, 1945. In Tehran, Stalin outlined the future borders in East Prussia for his allies. The border with Poland was to run from west to east immediately south of Königsberg along the Pregel and Pissa rivers (about 30 km north of the current Polish border). The project was much more profitable for Poland. She would receive the entire territory of the Vistula (Baltic) Spit and the cities of Heiligenbeil (now Mamonovo), Ludwigsort (now Ladushkin), Preußisch Eylau (now Bagrationovsk), Friedland (now Pravdinsk), Darkemen (Darkehmen, after 1938 - Angerapp, now Ozersk), Gerdauen (now Zheleznodorozhny), Nordenburg (now Krylovo). However, all cities, regardless of which bank of the Pregel or Pissa they are located on, will then be included in the USSR. Despite the fact that Königsberg was supposed to go to the USSR, its location near the future border would not prevent Poland from using the exit from the Frisches Half Bay (now the Vistula/Kaliningrad Bay) to the Baltic Sea together with the USSR. Stalin wrote to Churchill in a letter dated February 4, 1944, that the Soviet Union planned to annex the northeastern part of East Prussia, including Königsberg, since the USSR would like to have an ice-free port on the Baltic Sea. In the same year, Stalin mentioned this more than once in his communications with both Churchill and British Foreign Minister Anthony Eden, as well as during a Moscow meeting (10/12/1944) with the Prime Minister of the Polish government in exile Stanislaw Mikolajczyk. The same issue was raised during meetings (from September 28 to October 3, 1944) with the delegation of the Krajowa Rada Narodowa (KRN, Krajowa Rada Narodowa - a political organization created during the Second World War from various Polish parties and which was planned to be subsequently transformed into parliament. — admin) and PCNO, organizations in opposition to the London-based Polish government in exile. The Polish government in exile reacted negatively to Stalin's claims, pointing out the possible negative consequences of the inclusion of Königsberg into the USSR. On November 22, 1944 in London, at a meeting of the Coordination Committee, consisting of representatives of the four parties included in the government in exile, it was decided not to accept the dictates of the Allies, including the recognition of borders along the “Curzon Line”.

Map showing variations of the Curzon Line drawn up for the 1943 Tehran Allied Conference.

The draft borders proposed in February 1945 were known only to the State Defense Committee of the USSR and the Provisional Government of the Polish Republic (VPPR), transformed from the PKNO, which ceased its activities on December 31, 1944. At the Potsdam Conference, it was decided that East Prussia would be divided between Poland and the Soviet Union, but the final demarcation of the border was postponed until the next conference, already in peacetime. The future border was only outlined in general terms, which was supposed to begin at the junction of Poland, the Lithuanian SSR and East Prussia, and pass 4 km north of Goldap, 7 km north of Brausberg, now Braniewo and end on the Vistula (Baltic) Spit about 3 km north of the present village of Nowa Karczma. The position of the future border on the same terms was also discussed at a meeting in Moscow on August 16, 1945. There were no other agreements on the passage of the future border in the same way as it is laid now.

By the way, Poland has historical rights to the entire territory of the former East Prussia. Royal Prussia and Warmia went to Prussia as a result of the First Partition of Poland (1772), and the Polish crown lost fief rights to the Duchy of Prussia due to the Welau-Bydgoszcz treaties (and the political shortsightedness of King John Casimir), agreed upon in Welau on September 19, 1657, and ratified in Bydgoszcz November 5-6. In accordance with them, Elector Frederick William I (1620 - 1688) and all his descendants in the male line received sovereignty from Poland. In the event that the male line of the Brandenburg Hohenzollerns was interrupted, the Duchy was again to fall under the Polish crown.

The Soviet Union, supporting the interests of Poland in the west (east of the Oder-Neisse line), created a new Polish satellite state. It should be noted that Stalin acted primarily in his own interests. The desire to push the borders of Poland under his control as far west as possible was the result of a simple calculation: Poland’s western border would simultaneously be the border of the USSR’s sphere of influence, at least until the fate of Germany became clear. Nevertheless, violations of agreements on the future border between Poland and the USSR were a consequence of the subordinate position of the Polish People's Republic.

The agreement on the Polish-Soviet state border was signed in Moscow on August 16, 1945. The change in preliminary agreements on the border on the territory of the former East Prussia in favor of the USSR and the consent of Great Britain and the United States to these actions undoubtedly indicate their reluctance to strengthen the territorial strength of Poland, doomed to Sovietization.

After adjustment, the border between Poland and the USSR was supposed to pass along the northern borders of the former administrative regions of East Prussia (Kreiss. - admin) Heiligenbeil, Preussisch-Eylau, Bartenstein (now Bartoszyce), Gerdauen, Darkemen and Goldap, about 20 km north of the current border. But already in September-October 1945 the situation changed dramatically. In some sections, the border was moved without permission by the decision of the commanders of individual units of the Soviet Army. Allegedly, Stalin himself controlled the passage of the border in this region. For the Polish side, the eviction of the local Polish administration and population from towns and villages already settled and taken under Polish control came as a complete surprise. Since many settlements were already populated by Polish settlers, it got to the point that a Pole, leaving for work in the morning, could upon returning find out that his home was already on the territory of the USSR.

Władysław Gomulka, at that time the Polish Minister for the Returned Lands (Recovered Lands (Ziemie Odzyskane) is the general name for the territories that belonged to the Third Reich until 1939, and were transferred after the end of World War II to Poland according to the decisions of the Yalta and Potsdam conferences, as well as results of bilateral agreements between Poland and the USSR. - admin), noted:

“In the first days of September (1945), facts of unauthorized violation of the northern border of the Masurian district by Soviet army authorities were recorded in the territories of the Gerdauen, Bartenstein and Darkemen regions. The border line, defined at that time, was moved deeper into Polish territory to a distance of 12-14 km.”

A striking example of a unilateral and unauthorized change of the border (12-14 km south of the agreed line) by the Soviet army authorities is the Gerdauen region, where the border was changed after the delimitation act signed by the two parties on July 15, 1945. Commissioner for the Masurian District (Colonel Jakub Prawin - Jakub Prawin, 1901-1957 - member of the Communist Party of Poland, brigadier general of the Polish Army, statesman; was the plenipotentiary representative of the Polish government at the headquarters of the 3rd Belorussian Front, then the government representative in the Warmia-Masurian District, head of the administration of this district, and from May 23 to November 1945, the first governor of the Olsztyn Voivodeship. - admin) was informed in writing on September 4 that the Soviet authorities had ordered the Gerdauen mayor, Jan Kaszynski, to immediately leave the local administration and resettle the Polish civilian population. The next day (September 5), representatives of J. Pravin (Zygmunt Walewicz, Tadeusz Smolik and Tadeusz Lewandowski) expressed an oral protest against such orders to the representatives of the Soviet military administration in Gerdauen, Lieutenant Colonel Shadrin and Captain Zakroev. In response, they were told that the Polish side would be notified in advance of any changes to the border. In this area, the Soviet military leadership began to evict the German civilian population, while prohibiting Polish settlers from entering these territories. In this regard, on September 11, a protest was sent from Nordenburg to the District Prosecutor's Office in Olsztyn (Allenstein). This indicates that back in September 1945 this territory was Polish.

A similar situation was in the Bartenstein (Bartoszyce) district, the headman of which received all the acceptance documents on July 7, 1945, and already on September 14, the Soviet military authorities gave the order to free the areas around the villages of Schönbruch and Klingenberg from the Polish population. Klingenberg). Despite protests from the Polish side (09/16/1945), both territories were transferred to the USSR.

In the Preussisch-Eylau area, the military commandant Major Malakhov transferred all powers to the headman Pyotr Gagatko on June 27, 1945, but already on October 16, the head of the Soviet border troops in the area, Colonel Golovkin, informed the headman about the transfer of the border one kilometer south of Preussisch-Eylau. Despite protests from the Poles (10/17/1945), the border was moved back. On December 12, 1945, on behalf of Pravin's deputy Jerzy Burski, the mayor of Preussisch-Eylau vacated the city administration and handed it over to the Soviet authorities.

In connection with the unauthorized actions of the Soviet side to move the border, Yakub Pravin repeatedly (September 13, October 7, 17, 30, November 6, 1945) appealed to the central authorities in Warsaw with a request to influence the leadership of the Northern Group of Forces of the Soviet Army. The protest was also sent to the representative of the Server Group of Forces in the Masurian District, Major Yolkin. But all Pravin's appeals had no effect.

The result of arbitrary border adjustments not in favor of the Polish side in the northern part of the Masurian district was that the borders of almost all northern powiats (powiat - district. - admin) were changed.

Bronislaw Saluda, a researcher on this problem from Olsztyn, noted:

“...subsequent adjustments to the border line could lead to the fact that some of the villages already occupied by the population could end up on Soviet territory and the work of the settlers to improve it would be in vain. In addition, it happened that the border separated a residential building from the outbuildings or land plot assigned to it. In Shchurkovo it so happened that the border passed through a cattle barn. The Soviet military administration responded to complaints from the population that the loss of land here would be compensated by lands on the Polish-German border.”

The exit to the Baltic Sea from the Vistula Lagoon was blocked by the Soviet Union, and the final demarcation of the border on the Vistula (Baltic) Spit was carried out only in 1958.

According to some historians, in exchange for the agreement of the Allied leaders (Roosevelt and Churchill) to include the northern part of East Prussia with Königsberg into the Soviet Union, Stalin offered to transfer Bialystok, Podlasie, Chelm and Przemysl to Poland.

In April 1946, the official demarcation of the Polish-Soviet border on the territory of the former East Prussia took place. But she did not put an end to changing the border in this region. Until February 15, 1956, 16 more border adjustments took place in favor of the Kaliningrad region. From the initial draft of the border, presented in Moscow by the State Defense Committee of the USSR for consideration by the PKNO, in reality the borders were moved 30 km to the south. Even in 1956, when the influence of Stalinism on Poland weakened, the Soviet side “threatened” the Poles with “adjusting” the borders.

On April 29, 1956, the USSR proposed to the Polish People's Republic (PPR) to resolve the issue of the temporary state of the border within the Kaliningrad region, which had persisted since 1945. The border agreement was concluded in Moscow on March 5, 1957. The PPR ratified this treaty on April 18, 1957, and on May 4 of the same year, an exchange of ratified documents took place. After a few more minor adjustments, in 1958 the border was defined on the ground and with the installation of boundary pillars.

The Vistula (Kaliningrad) Lagoon (838 sq. km) was divided between Poland (328 sq. km) and the Soviet Union. Poland, contrary to initial plans, found itself cut off from the exit from the bay to the Baltic Sea, which led to the disruption of the once established shipping routes: the Polish part of the Vistula Lagoon became the “dead sea”. The “naval blockade” of Elblag, Tolkmicko, Frombork and Braniewo also affected the development of these cities. Despite the fact that an additional protocol was attached to the agreement of July 27, 1944, which stated that peaceful ships would be allowed free access through the Pilau Strait to the Baltic Sea.

The final border passed through railways and roads, canals, settlements and even farmsteads. For centuries, the emerging single geographical, political and economic territory was arbitrarily dismembered. The border passed through the territory of six former territories.

Polish-Soviet border in East Prussia. Yellow indicates the version of the border as of February 1945; blue indicates August 1945; red indicates the actual border between Poland and the Kaliningrad region.

It is believed that as a result of numerous border adjustments, Poland lost about 1,125 square meters in this region relative to the original border design. km of territory. The border drawn “along the line” led to numerous negative consequences. For example, between Braniewo and Gołdap, out of 13 roads that once existed, 10 turned out to be cut by the border; between Sempopol and Kaliningrad, 30 out of 32 roads were broken. The unfinished Masurian Canal was also cut almost in half. Numerous power and telephone lines were also cut. All this could not but lead to a worsening of the economic situation in settlements adjacent to the border: who would want to live in a settlement whose affiliation is not determined? There was a fear that the Soviet side might once again move the border to the south. Some more or less serious settlement of these places by settlers began only in the summer of 1947, during the forced resettlement of thousands of Ukrainians to these areas during Operation Vistula.

The border, practically drawn from west to east along the latitude, led to the fact that throughout the entire territory from Gołdap to Elbląg the economic situation never improved, although at one time Elbing, which became part of Poland, was the largest and most economically developed city (after Königsberg ) in East Prussia. Olsztyn became the new capital of the region, although until the end of the 1960s it was less populated and less economically developed than Elblag. The negative role of the final partition of East Prussia also affected the indigenous population of this region - the Masurians. All this significantly delayed the economic development of this entire region.

Fragment of a map of the administrative divisions of Poland. 1945 Source: Elbląska Biblioteka Cyfrowa.
Legend to the above map. The dotted line is the border between Poland and the Kaliningrad region according to the agreement of August 16, 1945; solid line—voivodeship boundaries; dot-dotted line - borders of powiats.

The option of drawing a border using a ruler (a rare case in Europe) was subsequently often used for African countries gaining independence.

The current length of the border between Poland and the Kaliningrad region (since 1991, the border with the Russian Federation) is 232.4 km. This includes 9.5 km of water border and 835 m of land border on the Baltic Spit.

Two voivodeships have a common border with the Kaliningrad region: Pomeranian and Warmian-Masurian, and six poviats: Nowodworski (on the Vistula Spit), Braniewski, Bartoszycki, Kieszynski, Węgorzewski and Gołdapski.

There are border crossings at the border: 6 land crossings (road Gronowo - Mamonovo, Grzechotki - Mamonovo II, Bezledy - Bagrationovsk, Goldap - Gusev; railway Braniewo - Mamonovo, Skandava - Zheleznodorozhny) and 2 sea.

On July 17, 1985, an agreement was signed in Moscow between Poland and the Soviet Union on the delimitation of territorial waters, economic zones, marine fishing zones and the continental shelf of the Baltic Sea.

The western border of Poland was recognized by the German Democratic Republic by the treaty of July 6, 1950, the Federal Republic of Germany recognized the border of Poland by the treaty of December 7, 1970 (clause 3 of Article I of this treaty states that the parties do not have any territorial claims to each other, and renounce any claims in the future. However, before the unification of Germany and the signing of the Polish-German border treaty on November 14, 1990, the Federal Republic of Germany officially declared that the German lands ceded to Poland after World War II were in the “temporary possession of the Polish administration "

The Russian enclave on the territory of the former East Prussia - the Kaliningrad region - still does not have international legal status. After World War II, the victorious powers agreed to transfer Königsberg to the jurisdiction of the Soviet Union, but only until an agreement was signed in accordance with international law, which would ultimately determine the status of this territory. An international treaty with Germany was signed only in 1990. The signing of it was previously prevented by the Cold War and Germany, divided into two states. And although Germany has officially renounced its claims to the Kaliningrad region, formal sovereignty over this territory has not been formalized by Russia.

Already in November 1939, the Polish government in exile was considering the inclusion of all of East Prussia into Poland after the end of the war. Also in November 1943, the Polish ambassador Edward Raczynski, in a memorandum handed over to the British authorities, among other things mentioned the desire to include all of East Prussia in Poland.

Schönbruch (now Szczurkowo/Shchurkovo) is a Polish settlement located near the border with the Kaliningrad region. During the formation of the border, part of Schönbruch ended up on Soviet territory, part on Polish territory. The settlement was designated on Soviet maps as Shirokoe (now does not exist). It was not possible to find out whether Shirokoe was inhabited.

Klingenberg (now Ostre Bardo/Ostre Bardo) is a Polish settlement a few kilometers east of Szczurkovo. It is located near the border with the Kaliningrad region. ( admin)

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It seems to us that it would be appropriate to cite the texts of some official documents that formed the basis for the process of dividing East Prussia and delimiting the territories allocated to the Soviet Union and Poland, and which were mentioned in the above article by V. Kalishuk.

Excerpts from the Materials of the Crimean (Yalta) Conference of the leaders of the three allied powers - the USSR, the USA and Great Britain

We have gathered at the Crimean Conference to resolve our differences on the Polish issue. We have fully discussed all aspects of the Polish question. We reaffirmed our common desire to see the establishment of a strong, free, independent and democratic Poland, and as a result of our negotiations we agreed on the terms on which a new Provisional Polish Government of National Unity would be formed in such a way as to gain recognition from the three major powers.

The following agreement has been reached:

“A new situation was created in Poland as a result of its complete liberation by the Red Army. This requires the creation of a Provisional Polish Government, which would have a broader base than was previously possible before the recent liberation of Western Poland. The Provisional Government currently operating in Poland must therefore be reorganized on a broader democratic basis, with the inclusion of democratic figures from Poland itself and Poles from abroad. This new government should then be called the Polish Provisional Government of National Unity.

V. M. Molotov, Mr. W. A. ​​Harriman and Sir Archibald K. Kerr are authorized to consult at Moscow as a Commission primarily with the members of the present Provisional Government and with other Polish democratic leaders both from Poland itself and from abroad. borders, having in mind the reorganization of the present Government on the above principles. This Polish Provisional Government of National Unity must commit itself to holding free and unobstructed elections as soon as possible on the basis of universal suffrage by secret ballot. In these elections, all anti-Nazi and democratic parties must have the right to participate and nominate candidates.

When the Polish Provisional Government of National Unity has been duly formed in accordance with (270) the above, the Government of the USSR, which at present maintains diplomatic relations with the present Provisional Government of Poland, the Government of the United Kingdom and the Government of the United States will establish diplomatic relations with the new Polish Provisional Government of National Unity and exchange ambassadors, from whose reports the respective governments will be informed of the situation in Poland.

The Heads of the Three Governments believe that the Eastern border of Poland should run along the Curzon Line with deviations from it in some areas of five to eight kilometers in favor of Poland. The Heads of the Three Governments recognize that Poland must receive significant increases in territory in the North and West. They believe that on the question of the size of these increments the opinion of the new Polish Government of National Unity will be sought in due course and that thereafter the final determination of the Western border of Poland will be postponed until the peace conference."

Winston S. Churchill

Franklin D. Roosevelt

Messtischblatt"s (1:25000, TK25) or more precisely Urmesstischblatt"s began to be issued by the General Staff of the Prussian Army in 1821, when Karl Freiherr von Müffling (1775-1851), the Chief of the General Staff (1821-1829) of the Prussian Army, proposed a new projection (multi-plane) for displaying the earth's surface on maps. The first Messtischblatts (maps at a scale of 1:25000 were called Urmesstischblatt) on the territory of the Klaipeda region (and East Prussia) appeared in 1832-1834 ( First edition ). The topographical survey was based on the 1830* triangulation.
The contents on the Urmestischblatt"s of the First Edition are displayed in color, with new topographical signs and symbols. The relief is displayed by shading according to the Lehmann system. Longitude was calculated with Ferro (coordinates were indicated on the corners of the maps). The frames of the maps indicate: the name of the sheet, who and when composed the map (maps were typically drawn by artillery officers) Content is not shown on maps outside of Prussia.

Fragment of Urmestischblatt "a 1 Nimmersatt (1:25000, 1834, territory of Lithuania). Original property of the Prussian Heritage Department of the Berlin Library

Second issue The Urmestischblatt" was developed and published by the Prussian Army in 1860*. The maps show the whole of Prussia. The contents have been updated according to the latest trigonometric measurements and terrain studies. In addition, the maps in this issue have trigonometric points on the frames. The relief is shown as contour lines, and the height value is indicated on the frame Continuous numbering of map sheets was adopted and remained until 1936 ().

Fragment of Urmestischblatt "a 1 Nimmersatt (1:25000, 1860, territory of Lithuania). Original property of the Prussian Heritage Department of the Berlin Library

Since 1880*, the publication of maps at a scale of 1:25000 began under the name Messtischblatt"s ( Third edition ). Like the First and Second Editions, Messtischblatt's of the third edition based on the original topographic survey were made only for the territory of Germany (Prussia). For the remaining territories, topographic surveys of the states on whose territory the maps were issued were used. The map sheets are trapezoidal in shape, the frame dimensions are 10" longitude and 6" latitude (44.5x42.7 cm at the 55° parallel). At first the longitude was calculated from Ferro, later from Greenwich, assuming that the difference was -17°40".
According to the old numbering, the sheets were numbered sequentially. According to the new one, the first two Arabic digits indicated the row, the remaining two or three - the position of the card in the row.
(old numbering).

Fragment of Messtischblatt "a 1 Nimmersatt (1912, 1:25000)

Some map sheets were updated and republished by the beginning of the Second World War. There are color versions of the map (relief is shown in brown contours, water in blue, see example below).

Fragment of 3-color Messtischblatt "a 1193 (147) Laukischken (1939, 1:25000)

More details about maps at a scale of 1:25000 (Messtischblatt) for “foreign” territories in German can be read in Vademecum Ost (1 Auflage, 1940).
During the First World War, in the territory of present-day Latvia, Lithuania, parts of Poland, Belarus and Ukraine, maps at a scale of 1:25000 were issued in a collection.
By the beginning of the Second World War, the Messtischblatts were updated (the original topographic survey was not done or was done in individual areas): they were gradually converted to the Gaus-Kruger projection, a kilometer grid was added, longitude was calculated from Greenwich. By the beginning of the Second World War, the Messtischblatts began to display and territories adjacent to Germany (old cartographic material was used), maps at a scale of 1:25000 were also issued on the borderlands of Lithuania and Germany (sheets), the Dubisa River basin ().

Fragment Messtischblatt "a 12103 (1940, 1:25000)

Fragment of the 3-color Messtischblatt "a Nr.10102 Grenzhöhe (1944, Deutschen Reich 1:25000)

Fragment of 2-color Messtischblatt "a Nr.17101 Dubeningen (1944, Deutschen Reich 1:25000)

Fragment of a 4-color Messtischblatt "a Nr.17201 Dubeningen (1944, Deutschen Reich 1:25000, map prepared on the basis of a German map at a scale of 1:5000 - Grundkarte 1:5000)

During World War II and after the war, most of the Messtischblatts were reissued (without updating).

Fragments of the geological Messtischblatt "a 17 Memel (1911-1912, 1:25000)

Fragment of agronomic Messtischblatt "a Nr. 1899 Gr.Duneyken (1912, 1:25000)

A separate topic is renaming names of settlements in East Prussia. First renaming of names of Baltic origin occurred in 1938. Changes are also reflected in topographic maps (also in Messtischblatt), see. examples below:

The introductory shot shows the former Königsberg North Station and the German tunnel leading to it directly under the main square. Despite all the horrors of the war, the Kaliningrad region is striking in its perfectly preserved German infrastructure: here it is not only railways, stations, canals, ports and airfields - it is even power lines! Which, however, is quite logical: churches and castles - etc. O damned ruins of a defeated enemy, and the people need train stations and substations.

And here’s another thing: yes, it is clearly clear that Germany a hundred years ago was significantly ahead of Russia in development... but not as much as you might think from this post, because the history of these lands into “before” and “after” was not broken down in 1917 , and 1945, that is, compare all this with the early Soviet Union, and not with the Russian Empire.

...To begin with, as is tradition, a review of the comments. Firstly, Albertina in Germany was far from second and hardly even tenth. Secondly, photographs No. 37 (now it really shows an example of Bauhaus) and 48 (now it shows something more similar to the architecture of the Third Reich, although a little earlier) have been replaced. In addition, as they pointed out to me, I understood the “new materiality” in a completely non-canonical way - in general, very little is known about this style in Russia, a sensible selection of photographs was found in the English Wikipedia, and there you can appreciate that it is very diverse. So my description of this style is only a subjective, emotional perception of its examples seen in the Kaliningrad region. Well, now - further:

In Königsberg there were two large stations (North and South) and many small stations such as Rathof or Hollenderbaum. However, I will have a separate post about the transport attractions of Kaliningrad, but here I will show only the most important thing - the landing stage. This is a rare thing in the former USSR - there are also such in Moscow (Kyiv and Kazansky railway stations), St. Petersburg (Vitebsky railway station), and more recently, in Germany there were such in many cities. Under the landing stage there are high platforms, underground passages... in general, the level is not at all for a Russian regional center. The station itself, on the contrary, is small and cramped; in Russia, such ones were sometimes built even in cities that were 5 times smaller in population than Königsberg: there was simply a different railway school, unlike either the Russian one or the Russian one. The inscription on three spans is “Welcome to Kaliningrad”, also somehow not in Russian, but in a completely different sense.

I think it’s no secret to anyone that small Germany is one of the main railway powers in the world... but like Russia, it did not gain momentum right away. It is interesting, at the same time, that at the forefront of railway construction here was not Prussia, but Bavaria, which in 1835 was the 5th in the world (after England, the USA, France and - with a difference of six months - Belgium) to open a steam locomotive line. The steam locomotive "Adler" ("Eagle") was purchased in England, and the Nuremberg-Fürth line itself was even more suburban than Tsarskoye Selo: 6 kilometers, and nowadays you can travel between the two cities by metro. In 1837-39 the Leipzig-Dresden line (117 kilometers) was built, in 1838-41 - Berlin-Potsdam (26 km), and then... The speed of development of the Deutschbahn in the 1840-60s is amazing, and finally in 1852-57 years, the Bromberg (now Bydgoszcz) - Königsberg line was also built, reaching the farthest German city from the center. Within the current borders of Russia, Kaliningrad is the third (after St. Petersburg and Moscow) large city with a railway. However, after 5 years the German railways, but during these five years the whole of East Prussia managed to sprout with them.

To be honest, I don’t know anything about the age of German train stations, and I haven’t seen many of them. I will only say that in their design at small stations they differ from Russian ones much less than Austro-Hungarian ones. It’s easy to imagine such a station... and, in general, at any station all the way to Vladivostok.

What’s more interesting is that many stations (offhand Chernyakhovsk, Sovetsk, Nesterov) here are equipped with canopies like this over the tracks - in our country this is again the prerogative of large cities and their suburbs. However, here you need to understand that in Russia for most of the year the main discomfort for passengers was the frost, so a large heated station was more expedient, and it was even colder on the platform under a canopy; Here, rain and wind were most important.

Many stations nevertheless died during the war and were replaced by Stalinist buildings:

But something else is interesting here: after the war, the length of the railway network in the Kaliningrad region was reduced threefold - from 1820 to 620 kilometers, that is, there are probably hundreds of stations without rails scattered throughout the region. Alas, I didn’t notice any of them, but something close:

This is Otradnoe, a suburb of Svetlogorsk. A railway abandoned since the 1990s leads from the latter to Primorsk, and by some miracle its rusty rails are still there. The house is adjacent to an embankment, towards which beams protrude from it. The second entrance leads to a door to nowhere. That is, apparently, it was a residential or office building of the early twentieth century, part of which was occupied by the station:

Or the abandoned Yantarny station on the same line - without the rails, who would guess that this is a train station?

However, if you believe the map of operating and dismantled lines, the network has shrunk by about a third, or at most by half, but not three times. But the fact is that in Germany a hundred years ago there was a dense network of narrow-gauge railways (the gauge, like ours, is 750 mm), and apparently, it was also included in these 1823 kilometers. Be that as it may, in Germany at the end of the 19th century, almost any village could be reached by public transport. Often narrow-gauge railways had their own stations, the station essence of which is usually not remembered even by old-timers - after all, trains have not operated from them for almost 70 years. For example, at the Gvardeysk station, opposite the main station:

Or this suspicious building in Chernyakhovsk. The Insterburg narrow-gauge railway existed, had its own station, this building faces the tracks with its backyard... in general, it looks like:

In addition, in the Kaliningrad region there are rare for Russia sections of the “Stephenson” gauge (1435 mm) on the lines leading from Kaliningrad and Chernyakhovsk to the south - only about 60 kilometers. Let's say Znamenka station, from where I went to Balga - the left path seemed to me a little narrower than the right; If I'm not mistaken, there is one "Stephenson" track at the South Station. Until recently, the Kaliningrad-Berlin train ran through Gdynia:

In addition to the stations, all sorts of auxiliary buildings have been well preserved. At most stations on the other side of the tracks there are such cargo terminals... however, they are not rare in Russia.

In some places, hydrants for filling steam locomotives with water have been preserved - although I don’t know if they were pre- or post-war:

But the most valuable of these monuments is the circular depot of the 1870s in Chernyakhovsk, now turned into a parking lot. The archaic buildings that replaced the “locomotive sheds” and subsequently gave way to roundhouses with turntables were nevertheless very perfect for their time. There are six of them preserved along the Eastern Highway: two in Berlin, as well as in the cities of Pila (Schneidemühl), Bydgoszcz (Bromberg), Tczew (Dirschau) and here.

There are similar structures (or have they already been broken?) in Russia on the Nikolaevskaya Mainline, we have them (were?) even larger and older (1849), but the pride of the Insterburg depot is considered to be the only “Schwedler dome” in Russia, exceptionally light for its time and as subsequent times have shown, it is very durable: unlike in the capital, no one is going to break it. There are similar structures in Germany and Poland.

Finally, bridges... But there are somehow few bridges here - after all, the rivers in the region are narrow, even the Pregol is noticeably smaller than the Moscow River, and the railway bridge across the Neman in Sovetsk was restored after the war. Here is the only “small” bridge I saw on the Chernyakhovsk-Zheleznodorozhny line, and it seems like one of its lines is the “Stephenson” gauge. Under the bridge is not a river, but another interesting object - the Masurian Canal, which will be discussed below. And concrete German “hedgehogs”, of which there are countless numbers lying around the region:

Things are much better with bridges above by railways. I don’t know exactly when they were built (perhaps before the First World War), but their most characteristic detail is these concrete trusses, which I have never come across in other places:

But the 7-arch bridge over the Pregolya in Znamensk (1880) is completely metal:

And now there are no longer rails under us, but asphalt. Or - paving stones: here it is found not only in rural areas, but even outside populated areas. So you’re driving along the asphalt, and suddenly - trrrrrtrrrtrirrrtttrrr... It gives off a disgusting vibration, but it’s not slippery. Cities are still paved with paving stones, including Kaliningrad itself, and some people told me that the stones in it come from all over the world, since in the old days cargo ships carried them as ballast and sold them at loading ports. In the damp climate there was simply no other choice - in Russia the roads were periodically "carried out", and in winter there was even slippery snow, but here there was constant porridge on them. I have already shown this frame - the road to. Almost all of it is paved, and only a section of paving stones remains on the hill.

Another feature of Prussian roads is “the last soldiers of the Wehrmacht.” Trees with their roots bind the ground under the road, and with their crowns they camouflage them from the air, and when they were planted, the speeds were not the same and crashing into a tree was no more dangerous than crashing into a ditch. Now there is no one to disguise the roads from, and driving on them - I speak as a convinced non-driver - is really DIRTY! A guy on the train told me that these trees are somehow enchanted: it’s a common thing when, in an alley like this, several wreaths hang on one single tree, “they attract themselves to themselves!” - this is about the fascist curse... In fact, there are few such “alleys” left and mostly in remote areas, but the asphalt on them is really not bad.

And in general, the roads here are surprisingly decent, especially the recently reconstructed Kaliningrad-Vilnius-Moscow highway (Chernyakhovsk, Gusev and Nesterov are strung together in the region). For the first fifty kilometers it is completely two lanes with a physical separation; potholes and holes are noticeable only on bridges.

But the problem is with bus stations - in fact, they are only in the largest cities of the region, such as Sovetsk or Chernyakhovsk, and for example, even in Zelenogradsk or Baltiysk they are simply absent. There is a platform from which buses depart, a board with a timetable to Kaliningrad, and pieces of paper with suburban traffic pinned to poles and trees. This is, say, in Baltiysk, one of the main cities in the region:

Although to be fair, the bus route system itself is well organized here. Yes, it’s all connected to Kaliningrad, but... Let’s say that on the Kaliningrad-Baltiysk route there are several dozen flights a day, and on the Baltiysk-Zelenogradsk route (via Yantarny and Svetlogorsk) - 4, which in general is also a lot. It’s not a problem to travel by bus even along the almost deserted Curonian Spit, if you know their schedule in advance. The cars are mostly quite new; you won’t see any dead Ikaruses. And despite the fact that the region is quite densely populated, travel through it is fast - an express bus takes an hour and a half to Chernyakhovsk and Sovetsk (this is 120-130 kilometers) from Kaliningrad.
But let's go back to German times. I don’t remember any pre-war Soviet-built bus stations at all; Finnish bus stations have been preserved in Vyborg and the district Sortavala; in general, I thought the Germans had a bus station in every town. As a result, I came across the only sample, again in Chernyakhovsk:
UPD: as it turned out, this is also a Soviet building. That is, apparently the pioneers of bus station construction in Europe were the Finns.

But several times we came across much funnier things - German gas stations. Compared to modern ones, they are very small, and therefore are mainly occupied by shops.

Germany is the birthplace of not only diesel, but also electric transport, the inventor of which can be considered Werner von Simmens: in the Berlin suburbs in 1881 he created the world's first tram line, and in 1882 - an experimental trolleybus line (afterwards trolleybus networks appeared and disappeared in dozens of European cities , but have taken root in few places). Urban electric transport in the future Kaliningrad region was available in three cities. Of course, the Koenigsberg tram is a narrow-gauge tram (1000mm, the same as in Lvov + Vinnitsa, Zhitomir, Evpatoria and Pyatigorsk), the oldest in Russia (1895, but throughout the empire we had older ones) and is functioning properly to this day. Another tram network operated in Tilsit (Sovetsk) since 1901, in memory of which a rare trailer was installed on its central square several years ago:

But Insterburg again distinguished itself: in 1936, it launched not a tram, but a trolleybus. It is worth saying that throughout the entire former USSR, before the war, trolleybuses appeared only in Moscow (1933), Kyiv (1935), St. Petersburg (1936) and then Romanian Chernivtsi (1939). The following depot survived from the Insterburg system:

Both the tram and the trolleybus in the district centers were never revived after the war. In Germany, trolleybuses almost disappeared entirely peacefully. This transport appeared in the former Königsberg in 1975.

Well, now let’s get off the asphalt and onto the water:

Europe has always been a land of dams - its rivers are fast, but poor in water and periodically overflow their banks. In the Kaliningrad region, shortly before my arrival, there was a storm with heavy rain that washed away the snow, and as a result, fields and meadows were flooded for kilometers with a thin layer of water. Many dams and ponds were founded here by the Crusaders, and they have existed continuously for the eighth century. In fact, in Kaliningrad itself, the oldest man-made object is the Castle Pond (1255). Dams and mills, of course, have been updated many times, but for example in Svetlogorsk the Mill Pond has existed since about the 1250s:

Particularly distinguished in this sense... no, not Insterburg, but neighboring Darkemen (now Ozersk), where either in 1880, or in 1886 (I still haven’t figured it out), instead of a regular dam, a mini-hydroelectric power station was built. This was the very dawn of hydropower, and it turns out that here is the oldest operating power station (and hydroelectric power station in general) in Russia, and thanks to it, Darkemen was one of the first in Europe to acquire electric street lighting (some even write that “the very first,” but to me I don’t really believe this).

But especially among the hydraulic structures, the 5 concrete locks of the Masurian Canal, dug back in the 1760s from the Masurian Lakes to Pregolia, stand out. The current gateways were built in 1938-42, becoming, perhaps, the largest monuments of the Third Reich era in the region. But it didn’t work out: after the war, the canal divided by the border was abandoned and is now overgrown.

However, out of the five gateways we visited three:

The Pregolya, which began at the confluence of Instruch and Angrappa on the territory of present-day Chernyakhovsk, is such a “little Rhine” or “little Nile,” the core river of the Kaliningrad region, which for a long time was its main road. It itself has enough locks, and Königsberg grew up on the islands of its delta. And this is where it leads: from the center of Kaliningrad, the operating double-tier drawbridge across the Pregolya (1916-26), behind which lies the port, is clearly visible:

And although the residential part of Kaliningrad is separated from the sea by industrial zones and suburbs, and the sea is only the Kaliningrad Bay, separated from the real sea by the Baltic Spit, there is still a lot of marine in the atmosphere of Koenigsberg. The proximity of the sea is reminiscent of the taste of air and the cries of huge seagulls; The Museum of the World Ocean with "Vityaz" adds romance. Pre-war photographs show that the Pregolya channels were simply clogged with ships of various sizes, and in Soviet times AtlantNIRO worked here (it still exists, but is dying), engaged in marine research throughout the Atlantic all the way to Antarctica; since 1959, one of the four whaling fleets of the USSR “Yuri Dolgoruky” was based here... however, I went astray. And the main attraction of the Königsberg port is two elevators from the 1920s and 30s, Red and Yellow:

Here it is worth remembering that East Prussia was the breadbasket of Germany, and grain from Russia was transported through it. Its transformation into an exclave after the First World War could have turned into a disaster, and Poland was not as accommodating then as Lithuania is in our time. In general, this situation has greatly affected the local infrastructure. At the time of construction, the Yellow Elevator was almost the largest in the world, and it is still grandiose to this day:

The second “reserve” of the port infrastructure is Baltiysk (Pillau), located on a spit, that is, between the bay and the open sea, the westernmost city of Russia. Actually, its special role began in 1510, when a storm made a hole in the sand spit almost opposite Königsberg. Baltiysk was a fortress, a commercial port, and a military base, and the breakwaters near the strait were built in 1887. Here they are - the Western Gate of Russia:

I was also puzzled by this leading sign. I haven't seen anything like this in Russia. Maybe I didn’t see my problems, or maybe it’s German:

In Baltiysk I had the opportunity to visit an operating ship. According to the sailor who met us there, this crane was captured, German, and had been in operation before the war. I don’t presume to judge, but it looks very archaic:

However, the Baltic seaside is not only ports, but also resorts. The Baltic here is shallower and warmer than off the German coast, which is why both monarchs and writers came to Kranz, Rauschen, Neukuren and others to improve their health (for example, Thomas Mann, whose house has been preserved on the Lithuanian part of the Curonian Spit). Russian nobility also vacationed here. The special feature of these resorts is the promenades, or rather the promenade decks above the beaches. Svetlogorsk already has no beach - recently it was literally washed away by a storm, since the German breakwaters have long since fallen into disrepair. Above the promenade is a mega-elevator (1973), which has not been operating since 2010, built to replace a German funicular that did not survive the war:

Things are better in Zelenogradsk. Pay attention to the wind turbines on the horizon - this is already ours. Vorobyovskaya Wind Farm is considered the largest in Russia, although by world standards it is miniature. There are also German lighthouses on the coast, primarily at Cape Taran, but I didn’t get there.

But in general, Königsberg faced not so much the sea as the sky; it was no coincidence that all the roads here led to the 100-meter tower of the Castle. They told me “We have a cult of pilots here!” However, by the beginning of the twentieth century, Germany was the European, if not world, leader in aeronautics - it is not entirely obvious that “Zeppelin” is not a synonym for “airship”, but its specific brand. Germany had 6 combat zeppelins alone, one of which was based in Königsberg. There was also an aeronautics school there. The Zepelin hangar (unlike many others in Germany itself) did not survive, but looked like this:

And in 1919, the isolation of Prussia gave birth to another iconic object - the Devau airfield, which became the first civilian airport in Europe. In 1922, the world's first air terminal (not preserved) was built here, at the same time the first international Aeroflot line Moscow-Riga-Koenigsberg opened, and many people flew on it - for example, Mayakovsky, who dedicated a poem to this phenomenon. Now Devau, located within the city, belongs to DOSAAF, and there are ideas (at the level of enthusiasts so far) of recreating the air terminal, organizing a museum and even, ideally, an international small aviation airport.

East Prussia, even under the Third Reich, became the domain of the Luftwaffe with numerous airfields. The school in Neukuren (now Pionersky) produced many enemy aces, including Eric “Bubby” Hartman, the best military pilot in history: it is officially believed that he shot down 352 aircraft, 2/3 of them Soviet.
Under the Baltic - the ruins of the Neutif airbase:

And under the Soviets, local pilots broke into space: out of 115 Soviet cosmonauts, four were associated with Kaliningrad, including Alexey Leonov and Viktor Patsayev.

But let's return to earth. Here, the urban infrastructure is of particular interest - I don’t know how much more developed it was than in the early USSR, but very unusual. The most noticeable ones are, of course, water towers, a “collection” of which he collects in his magazine soullaway . While our water pumps were built in large series, the Germans in Prussia couldn’t find two identical ones. True, for the same reason our water pumps still seem to me average more beautiful. Here are a couple of samples from Baltiysk (before and after the First World War) - in my opinion the most interesting that I saw here:

But the largest in the region is in Sovetsk:

Continuation of water supply - hydrants. Here they are almost the same throughout the region, in its different cities:

However, Königsberg is also the birthplace of the electric power industry, or rather of Gustav Kirchhoff, and this cannot be ignored here. The most common promarch here, after industrial mills, is power plants:

And also substations:

Countless transformer booths:

And even pillars “with horns” - their lines stretch throughout the area:

There are also some other pillars here. Supports for electrified narrow gauge railways? Lanterns in villages wiped off the face of the earth? War, everything here ends in war.

The Germans built to last, but it played a cruel joke on us. Communications in other parts of the USSR wore out faster and were repaired faster. Here, many pipes and wires have not seen repair since the 1940s, and their service life has finally expired. According to and taiohara , And soullaway , accidents with water or light outages are regular here. In Baltiysk, for example, water is turned off at night. In many houses, house boiler rooms, which are completely uncharacteristic of the Soviet Union, remain, and in winter the Prussian towns are enveloped in smoke.

In the next part... I was planning three “general” posts, but in the end I realized that a fourth was needed. In the next part - about the main symbol of the current Kaliningrad region: amber.

FAR WEST
. Sketches, thanks, disclaimer.
.
East Prussia
. Crusader outpost.
.
German infrastructure.
Amber region.
Foreign Russia. Modern flavor.
Kaliningrad/Konigsberg.
The city that exists.
Ghosts of Koenigsberg. Kneiphof.
Ghosts of Koenigsberg. Altstadt and Löbenicht.
Ghosts of Koenigsberg. Rossgarten, Tragheim and Haberberg.
Victory Square, or simply Square.
Koenigsberg transport. Stations, trams, Devau.
Museum of the World Ocean.
Inner ring of Königsberg. From Friedland Gate to the Square.
Inner ring of Königsberg. From the market to the amber museum.
Inner ring of Königsberg. From the Amber Museum to Pregolya.
Garden city of Amalienau.
Rathof and Juditten.
Ponart.
Sambia.
Natangia, Warmia, Bartia.
Nadrovia, or Lithuania Minor.

• Velau (Znamensk) The city was taken on January 23, 1945 during the Insterburg-Koenigsberg operation.
• Gumbinnen (Gusev) Having launched the offensive on January 13, 1945, the soldiers of the 28th Army were able to overcome enemy resistance and, by the end of January 20, break into the eastern outskirts of the city. At 22:00 on January 21, by order of the Supreme Commander-in-Chief, the capture of the city was announced, gratitude was announced to the distinguished troops and a salute was given to the 12th artillery. salvos from 124 guns.
• Darkemen (Ozersk) The city was captured on January 23, 1945 during the Insterburg-Koenigsberg operation. In 1946, the city was renamed Ozyorsk. After the Second World War the city was heavily damaged, but the city center still retains its historical appearance.
• Insterburg (Chernyakhovsk) Troops of the 3rd Belorussian Front, 22.1..45. carried out an offensive along the entire front. In the Koenigsberg direction, with a decisive blow they broke the fierce resistance of the enemy on the Pregel River and stormed a powerful stronghold, a communications hub and the vital center of East Prussia, the city of Instenburg... . … Seventh: 6 The army continued its attack on Instenburg. As a result of decisive actions by the right flank and center, the resistance of the enemy's Instenburg lines was broken through. At the end of the day they were still fighting on the left flank...
• Kranz (Zelenogradsk) Kranz was occupied by Soviet troops on February 4, 1945. There were fierce battles on the Curonian Spit, but Kranz himself was practically unharmed during the war. In 1946 Kranz was renamed Zelenogradsk.
• Labiau (Polessk) The city was captured on January 23, 1945 during the Insterburg-Koenigsberg operation. In 1946, it was renamed Polessk in honor of the historical and geographical region of Polesie.
• Neuhausen (Gurievsk) On January 28, 1945, the village of Neuhausen was taken by the 192nd Infantry Division under the command of Colonel L. G. Bosanets. On April 7 of the same year, the Königsberg district was formed with its center in Neuhausen, and on September 7, 1946, the city was renamed in honor of the Hero of the Soviet Union, Major General Stepan Savelyevich Guryev (1902-1945), who died during the assault on Pillau
• Pillau (Baltiysk) The city was captured on April 25, 1945 by the troops of the 3rd Belorussian Front and the forces of the Red Banner Baltic Fleet during the Zemland operation. The 11th Guards Army under Colonel General Galitsky took part in the assault on Pillau. On November 27, 1946, Pillau received the name Baltiysk.
• Preussisch-Eylau (Bagrationovsk) The city was captured on February 10, 1945 during the East Prussian operation. On September 7, 1946, the city was renamed in honor of the Russian commander, hero of the Patriotic War of 1812, General Pyotr Ivanovich Bagration.
• Ragnit (Neman) The fortified city of Ragnit was captured by storm on January 17, 1945. After the war, Ragnit was renamed Neman in 1947.
• Raushen (Svetlogorsk) In April 1945, Rauschen and the surrounding settlements were occupied without fighting. In 1946 it was renamed Svetlogorsk.
• Tapiau (Gvardeysk) The city was captured on January 25, 1945 by troops of the 3rd Belorussian Front during the Insterburg-Koenigsberg Operation: 39 A - part of the forces of the 221st Infantry Division (Major General Kushnarenko V.N.), 94th Infantry Division (Major General Popov I.I.)
• Tilsit (Sovetsk) The troops of the 3rd Belorussian Front, decisively developing the offensive, defeated the enemy’s Tilsit group and cut all the roads connecting Tilsit with Insterburg. Subsequently, with a swift strike by units of the 39th and 43rd armies at 10 p.m. 30m. On January 19, 1945, they captured the powerful German defense center in East Prussia, the city of Tilsit.
• Fischhausen (Primorsk) The city was captured on April 17, 1945 during the Zemland operation.
• Friedland (Pravdinsk) The city was captured on January 31, 1945 by the troops of the 3rd Belorussian Front during the East Prussian Operation: 28 A - part of the forces of the 20 Infantry Division (Major General Myshkin A.A.), 20 Infantry Division (Major General Shvarev N.A.)
• Haselberg (Krasnoznamensk) On January 18, 1945, the city was taken by troops of the 3rd Belorussian Front during the Insterburg-Koenigsberg operation. In 1946 it was renamed Krasnoznamensk.
• Heiligenbeil (Mamonovo) The city was captured on March 25, 1945 during the destruction of the Heilsberg enemy group.
• Stallupenen (Nesterov) The city was captured on October 25, 1944 by troops of the 3rd Belorussian Front during the Gumbinnen operation.